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Wiessner Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fritz T,TR 
Hambone Arete 
Just Another Pretty Face TR 
Stinger T,TR 
Upper Wiessner Crack T,TR 
Wasp, The T,TR 
Wiessner Boulder 
Wiessner Chimney T,TR 
Wiessner Face T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Wiessner Face 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner?
Page Views: 6,073
Submitted By: James M Schroeder on Feb 22, 2002  with updates from James M Schroeder

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Kayte sampling what Devil's Lake is all about: thi...

Description 

A Devil's Lake 10-star, mega-classic! Perched on the airy right-hand side of one of Devil's Lake's most impressive and imposing walls, Wiessner's Face starts on the right side of Wiessner's Ledge, and negotiates blocky terrain up and right to a good stance above the pine tree. From that stance, it links (at a moderate grade) edges and horizontal cracks up what appears from below to be a blank, improbable face. Each move up is an exercise in faith, but rest-assured, the holds will present themselves, and you will not, despite the nagging feeling, fall all the way to the lake waiting patiently, hundreds of feet below, if you fail in finding them.

Protection 

A variety of pieces suffice for building an anchor on the Wiessner Ledge, but it is best to use up the big stuff in the anchor and save the smaller gear for the actual climbing above. The face itself can be well-protected with a double-set of TCUs.

The route can be well-protected, but the gear is quite specific, not always obvious, and at times, slightly dubious (as in, how do you really feel about the #00 TCU placed 1/2" deep in the horizontal crack, five feet below you?). Given this, it is an excellent stepping stone in the progression for the aspiring Devil's Lake leader with plans to someday test himself or herself on some of the park's more sparsely protected and challenging headpoints.

Location/Getting There 

Wiessner's Face is located on the upper-right-half of the Wiessner Wall and starts from the far-right end of Wiessner's Ledge. The Wiessner Ledge is easily accessed, either by rappelling from above, or more classically as a second pitch, via the Wiessner Chimney.


Photos of Wiessner Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kayte Knower and the Climbing Magazine photo that ...
Kayte Knower and the Climbing Magazine photo that ...
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the Lake's best routes...
One of the Lake's best routes...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Campbell definitely channeling the DLFA
Paul Campbell definitely channeling the DLFA
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug "at one" with Fritz Wiessner.
Doug "at one" with Fritz Wiessner.
Rock Climbing Photo: John K channeling the 70's and the perhaps the DLF...
John K channeling the 70's and the perhaps the DLF...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wiessner Face on lead.  Wow!  The weather was pret...
Wiessner Face on lead. Wow! The weather was pret...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Campbell living the dream
Paul Campbell living the dream
Rock Climbing Photo: Gokul
Gokul
Rock Climbing Photo: Reinke cleaning up "Weissner's Face"
Reinke cleaning up "Weissner's Face"
Rock Climbing Photo: Fritz (2), Stinger (3), Wiessner Chimney (4), Just...
BETA PHOTO: Fritz (2), Stinger (3), Wiessner Chimney (4), Just...

Comments on Wiessner Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 26, 2002

Could you imagine Fritz Wiessner climbing it in lug soled boots and having to pound pitons for pro. Fritz was THE MAN!!!
By Stephen D. Schaefgen
May 1, 2002

I agree with Jay. I think we sometimes forget how cool those guys are. Climbing with hemp ropes and protection that wasn't really protection. In boots! In the snow! In the cold! They are all "the man"!
By wayniak
Apr 27, 2003

Decent exposure on a steep thin face with pro in horizontal crack. Bring small (0.25-1.25) cams to protect the face.
By bugdad
Aug 25, 2005

I think that this route (Wiessner face) is visible from the railroad amphitheater across the lake. Is it? I always liked this route just because it's one of the longer (higher)routes in the park. It's been a long time since I climbed, but I still remember it. I haven't been to DL for a few years. I used to go with my son Efrain "Bug" "moke"(passed away[non climbing]) and he and I really liked this route.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 14, 2005

This is THE BEST route at Devil's Lake.
By Ian Schmit
May 4, 2007

Absolutely awesome route. Good pro.

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