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Unsorted Routes:

Wiessner Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Roger and Hassler Whitney, 1934
Page Views: 4,289
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Just below the crux

Description 

This is the corner above the right side of Wiessner slab. Either climb the slab, set your belay, and contemplate leading this climb in 1934 with ancient gear or start the corner from the ground on the inside of the chimney. By starting in the chimney(5.6+) it is easy to do in one pitch.

This is a stiff but protectable lead that takes a variety of gear. You can protect just about anywhere if you can hang in there. I've seen some serious falls on this when the leader decided to just go for it.

Hassler Whitney is famous for the Whitney-Gilman ridge on Cannon, put up earlier in 1929.


Protection 

Standard traprock rack. Wires, some cams.



Photos of Wiessner Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Leading Wiesner Crack in March, Yes thats a down jacket im wearing. Great gear and thoughful moves.
Leading Wiesner Crack in March, Yes thats a down j...
Wiessner crack (looking down from top) and Weissner slab below it.
BETA PHOTO: Wiessner crack (looking down from top) and Weissne...
Such a great crack....if only it was a full rope length!
Such a great crack....if only it was a full rope l...
Looking up the slab to Weissner Crack
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the slab to Weissner Crack
Comments on Wiessner Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yes, climb the hole. It's rather spelunk-ish.

By Eric G.
Jul 8, 2012

crux pro is outstanding.

By Kurtz
Nov 11, 2013

In Summer/Fall start in the cave/chimney! The change from enclosure to exposure adds to the fun.

In the Spring, there's usually an occupied bird's nest right on the back side of the slab near the opening. Climb the slab then.