|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 140'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Andrew Gram on Jun 25, 2002|
|Comments on Wiessner Chimney||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bob Archbold
Aug 13, 2002
|This route is far from being a classic in my book. To me grunts are not classics. I have done this route and I have successfully avoided since. There are other routes on Inner Outlet that are better such as the Conn's Retable route on Inner Outlet. I would give this route zero stars or maybe a negative 3 stars|
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 14, 2002
I would argue this is a three star classic if you like squeeze chimneys, otherwise it is a 0 star nightmare. This is one of the longest and most sustained pitches of moderate squeeze chimney I have ever been on. Needles climbers venturing out to do long routes in the mountains, Yosemite, or the desert should test their mettle on this - climbing wide cracks is standard in most places.
It certainly isn't as much fun to climb as Classic Crack however. The best part is when it is over...
By Tyson S Arp
Aug 15, 2002
|Believe it or not this was one of the first trad climbs I ever led. I had no idea what I was getting into. I didn't own cams at the time and the small amount of gear that I did place was not awe inspiring. Half way up the chimney I was so freaked that I had to stop and placed a belay deep inside the chimney so I could collect my wits. After belaying Angela up that first pitch I was able to continue and finish out the climb. I honestly don't remember the climbing being that miserable. It was my inability to get decent pro that made my miserable. While the climbing can be enjoyable if you're in the right state of mind, I wouldn't give it more than one star.|