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Widowmaker T 

Widowmaker 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Josh Smith, George Perkins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 226
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013

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Widowmaker rockfall aftermath. Kinda spooky. April...

Description 

This route stacks up against the best anywhere and it will challenge every one of your crack climbing skills. Had a huge bridge/block spanning the chimney; the Widomaker. The many-ton Widowmaker block fell out of the chimney in the winter of 10/11. Head up towards the big roof; step left and clip two bolts, climbing on the aręte. Tip into the corner. Tips to fingers to hands to a fist crack to the roof. Over the roof a 20 ft 6” crack takes you to the anchors.


Location 

Look for the unmistakable huge chimney with the 15 foot roof at the top.


Protection 

Single set TCUs 0.1 to 0.5. 2 each .75, 3 each #1-3. Optional #4 and #6 (the 6” portion of the crack is about 5.9 but there's a slight chance you'll be tired by this point). Long slings needed to control drag.



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