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Luther Spires (crag)
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Widow Maker S 

Widow Maker 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jay Sell
Page Views: 2,950
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Aug 7, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Paul passing first thin crux.

Description 

Widow Maker is claimed to be one of the best face climbs at Luther Spires and it certainly is a challenging and fun route! This is one of the two furthest left and furthest up routes in the Supertopo South Lake Tahoe Climbing guide book by Chris McNamara. There are two ways to get to the route. Once you arrive at the Spires from the approach path, walk left. After only 30-40 feet the path either leads up along the spires or down to underneath all the spires. The only reason to go up is to get to other routes of interest or to check out the many other routes. This way is longer and MUCH harder than dropping down. Dropping down you follow a thin manzania path that goes left passing one set of Spires. Continue along until path veers up towards a beautiful free standing spire. This has several routes on it but Widow Maker is on the rock which sits above this. Follow path up and right around large boulders and up to large cliff. The beautiful line of WIdow Maker is almost directly in front of you. The climb is wonderfully well protected face climbing on solid rock.

Protection 

6 bolts to two bolt anchors with rappel rings. First bolt is quite a ways up there but small to medium trad gear could protect the traverse to the first bolt if necessary.


Photos of Widow Maker Slideshow Add Photo
Widow Maker climbs the orangish rock at bottom right, traverses left and up the beautiful face to the top.
Widow Maker climbs the orangish rock at bottom rig...
Paul clipping first bolt with others clearly visible above.
Paul clipping first bolt with others clearly visib...
Brad getting through the delicate face moves midway up.
Brad getting through the delicate face moves midwa...

Comments on Widow Maker Add Comment
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By Brad Allender
From: Alameda, CA
Aug 10, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I would agree that this climb is definately one of the best at Luther Spires. It has some outstanding moves on it that are just fun to do. Also solid for its grade. Well worth the walk to get to (even if you take the difficult path).
By Blitzo
Jul 10, 2008

It's one of Jay Smith's un-reported routes. He climbed routes all over the area, but reported only some.
By Ryan Curry
Jun 22, 2011

FA of this route was made by Jay Sell.