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 ADVANCED
Wizard Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Christal Ball S 
Crack T 
Driven Like the Snow T 
Magic Wand S 
Right Arete T 
Ruff T,TR 
Snow Crash S 
Two in the Bush T,TR 
Uncertain Fates T 
Wave Yer Wand T 
Way of the Wizard S 
Wide Jadodat T 
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 

Wide Jadodat 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, 5/07 (?)
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces North
Page Views: 494
Submitted By: Tony B on May 21, 2007

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Description 

Wide Jadodat?
A Midwestern colloquialism for "Why did you do that?"
"Because it was there."

This climb might make a great intro to O.W. climbing, except there are so many face holds that you never really climb the crack. At least it is a good corner for its very short length, but barely worth doing.

To descend, walk/scramble off to the East.


Location 

At the left end of Wizard Rock, well left of the gully left of the left-most sport routes, there is a short buttress with a shallow, right-facing corner. A tree grows out of this corner, perhaps 4 meters up, and beyond that point, a fist to wide crack goes to the top.


Protection 

FA was free-solo, but a few wide cams would protect the climb just fine. A long sling (2'+) could beused on the tree stump, then maybe a #3 Camalot before reaching the wider crack above (old style #4 Camalot). The top would take a very large stopper or medium hex.



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