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Wide Crack 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 237
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Apr 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Layback overhang (though other options exist if dry), then climb crack to tree with rap anchor.

Location 

10 feet right of Five Start Crack at an overhang with a crack above it that goes to the top. Often dirty/wet.

Protection 

Standard rack.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 18, 2012

It's hard to not give this a star when dry. Heck, even when wet it's fun. Expect dirt, wetness, and possibly mud.
By Jay Harrison
Apr 20, 2012

Were it not for the wetness and mud, this would be another Adk classic pitch. Even with the plentitude of grime and slime, it is a fun ride.
A good line to get acquainted with typical aspects of Adk exploratory climbing.
By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

dry year, dry for days, first ten feet muddy and wet. bummer. didnt effect the climbing that much. noticed the start of 5star was a lil wet too. all the cracks seem to constantly filter debris from the top as well. the aspect of the cliff and the tree cover mean this is just the way it is. still a fun time.
By conljr
Sep 13, 2012

The wet start and muddy/dirt finish is worth it for the 20ft of crack in the middle. It also looks like someone spent some time cleaning up some of the climbs in this area.
By Rob Griffiths
Apr 29, 2013

On April 28, 2013, I ripped a large 30 lb rock off this route near the top. It looks like winter has softened things up. Use some caution towards the top, as there is still some loose dirt and rock. A little more cleaning should make this a bit nicer for the upcoming season.
By John Lombardi
Sep 23, 2013

This is a surprisingly fun climb. I've climbed it twice in a 3 week interval. Even after some pretty decent rain the top of the route wasn't that wet. The top is dirty but I may have just gotten lucky and not had a real muddy experience. There is a 10' section of some committing hand jams that is very, very fun.
By Shane Kenyon
From: Canandaigua (city), New York
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My first 5.7 lead, a lot of fun! Bring big gear as I ended up having to do a long run-out. Completely dry and clean when I did it.