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 ADVANCED
The Red Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1976 Crack/chimney T 
Back Scratcher T 
Bumblies For Breakfast S 
Corner, The T 
Diamondback S 
Fun 'n Games T 
Lounge Lizard S 
MK '74 T,TR 
Pink Slip S 
Rattle and Scream S 
Slip and Slide S 
Slip It In T 
Snakes For Snacks S 
Spring Fever T,S 
Trundelero S 
Vapor Trail S 
Wicked Game S 
Unsorted Routes:

Wicked Game 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Guy Lords
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 23, 2001

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Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This line tackles the crack through the middle of the roof in the middle of the Red Slab. Scramble up a low-angle slab to the base of the roof crack. Clip an ancient fixed pin, then stretch high to clip the first bolt. The crux comes immediately pulling over the roof. The "S" rating comes from the easier, but runout climbing above. Save a little bit for the finish, where you'll encounter a few more 5.10 moves close to protection.


Protection 

Six bolts and an ancient fixed pin to a two-bolt anchor with chains.



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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Being tall and on TR, the roof was pretty easy. Jam, jug, jug. My partner had more trouble. There were some thoughtful, maybe 9ish moves midway. The final moves were maybe low 10, pulling up and right via a thin sidepull. What shows of the "ancient pin" looks good to me, a 5/8" angle(?) with a bit of rest, but what doesn't show may be worse. The pin can be easily backed up with gear.