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 ADVANCED
The Red Slab
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Wicked Game 

Wicked Game 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Guy Lords
Page Views: 404
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 23, 2001
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Description 

This line tackles the crack through the middle of the roof in the middle of the Red Slab. Scramble up a low-angle slab to the base of the roof crack. Clip an ancient fixed pin, then stretch high to clip the first bolt. The crux comes immediately pulling over the roof. The "S" rating comes from the easier, but runout climbing above. Save a little bit for the finish, where you'll encounter a few more 5.10 moves close to protection.


Protection 

Six bolts and an ancient fixed pin to a two-bolt anchor with chains.



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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Being tall and on TR, the roof was pretty easy. Jam, jug, jug. My partner had more trouble. There were some thoughtful, maybe 9ish moves midway. The final moves were maybe low 10, pulling up and right via a thin sidepull. What shows of the "ancient pin" looks good to me, a 5/8" angle(?) with a bit of rest, but what doesn't show may be worse. The pin can be easily backed up with gear.