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 ADVANCED
The Dry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Can't Say S 
Crazy Train, The S 
Graffiti Patient S 
Grushenka S 
Its Right to be Frank S 
JJ Memorial S 
Left Be Frank S 
Little Red Rooster S 
Lowe Route, The S 
Pit, The S 
Pocket Full of Trundles S 
Precious, The S 
Something Must Break S 
Stop that Terrain S 
Way Hammered S 
Wicked Bender S 

Wicked Bender 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: 
Season: southeast facing-5500 ft elevation
Page Views: 2,143
Submitted By: bheller on Jul 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Lonnie Kauk getting lowered off Wicked Bender

Description 

Another worthy link up. Climb The Pit to the second to last bolt before the chains. Diagonal left for a few more bolts of technical pocket pulling, and finish on the nice orange stone that shares its finish with The JJ Memorial route. The highest anchors on the left side of the wall, above the Crazy Train anchors, are your finishing target.


Location 

Climbs out the middle of the low Dry wall cave, sharing the start with The Pit. Heads left from the second to last bolt of The Pit and clips a few more bolts until the highest set of anchors on the left side of the wall. This is the same finish as The JJ Memorial route.


Protection 

Bolts... about 7... lower off the chains. Stick clip the high first bolt.



Photos of Wicked Bender Slideshow Add Photo
Lonnie Kauk sending the last move on Wicked Bender
BETA PHOTO: Lonnie Kauk sending the last move on Wicked Bender
Lonnie Kauk redpointing his 2nd attempt of Wicked Bender.
BETA PHOTO: Lonnie Kauk redpointing his 2nd attempt of Wicked ...
Lonnie Kauk navigating his way through Wicked Bender
Lonnie Kauk navigating his way through Wicked Bend...
Lonnie Kauk
Lonnie Kauk
Comments on Wicked Bender Add Comment
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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Sep 15, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

No knee bars for me but it's a size thing. Very good route.

By Scott W
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2011

I've only ever heard this called 13a and the route just left of it that isn't on the topo 13b. Easy easy for 13b, route left of it, solid 13b.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I think it's been sorted. This starts on The Pit and, yes, isn't 13b. Derailed has the funky start moves.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 5, 2013

Derailed=JJ Memorial