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Wichita Wildlife Refuge

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Charon's Gardens 
Ice Box Crag 
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Mount Scott 
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Parking Lot 
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Treasure Cove 

Wichita Wildlife Refuge  


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Location: 34.7108, -98.6233 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 352,788
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 11, 2006
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Charon Gardens, Wichita Mountains Wildlife refuge....

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climbing year round. Look for the shade in the summer and sun in the winter. Spring and fall are the 'in' seasons. World Class granite is the name of the game with some nice boulders as well. The ratings are old school, so everything is solid.

No booze and no guns inside the reserve. All areas open at 9 and close at sundown except the Mt. Scott. Be mindful of your speed in the reserve.

Getting There 

15 minutes west of Lawton Oklahoma, look for the Cache exit, head north into the reserve.

Guidebook 

Oklahoma Select "A Climber's Guide" is available at Sharpend books. In this 2004 guide book author Tony Mayse covers the best routes at Quartz Mountain and the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.

CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOUR OWN COPY

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.2 miles from here

359 Total Routes

['4 Stars',34],['3 Stars',110],['2 Stars',97],['1 Star',38],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',40],['5.7',22],['5.8',44],['5.9',54],['5.10',66],['5.11',35],['5.12',17],['5.13',5],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',28],['V4-5',17],['V6-7',12],['V8-9',6],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wichita Wildlife Refuge:
One Hit Wonder   V2 5+     Boulder   Charon's Gardens : Wapiti Bouldering
The Oklahoma Panhandler   V6 7A     Boulder, 1718'   Crab Eyes : Crab Eyes Bouldering
Great Expectations   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch   Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs
The Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 60'   The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Water Streak   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs
High Anxiety   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Ker Plunk   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   The Narrows : Lichen Wall
Foolish   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch   Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott
Fantasy Roof   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 45'   The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Crazy Alice   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 60'   The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Mr. Clean   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Foolish Behavior   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott
Dr. Coolhead   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X     Trad, TR, 60'   The Narrows : Zoo Wall
Spaceballs   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   The Narrows : Lichen Wall
Layaway Plan   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott
Aerial Anticipation   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   The Narrows : Aerial Anticipation
League of Doom   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches   The Narrows : Lichen Wall
Rap Bolters from Hell   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Lost My Religion   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Tied to the Whipping Post   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome
Browse More Classics in Wichita Wildlife Refuge

Featured Route For Wichita Wildlife Refuge
Rhyan Brown trying some toe hook beta on the problem

The Angry Inch V10 7C+  OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : ... : Lost Dome Bouldering
Starts on a double sloping crimp with an okay left foot. Throw to a left hand sloping crimp. Then bump right hand to a pinch, then to a better crimp. Reach around to an okay left hand sidepull and then throw to the jug for the top out. A very short, but burly problem....[more]   Browse More Classics in OK

Photos of Wichita Wildlife Refuge Slideshow Add Photo
Charons Garden Wilderness Area <br /> <br />Photo: Ryan Ray
Charons Garden Wilderness Area Photo: Ryan Ray
A male collard lizard getting some morning sun
A male collard lizard getting some morning sun
Sun set over Crab Eyes (just left of center) as seen on the way back from Lost Dome after a long day of climbing.  Crab eyes is located in the Charon's Garden Wilderness Area.
Sun set over Crab Eyes (just left of center) as se...
Objective hazards when driving through the Wichitas.
Objective hazards when driving through the Wichita...
Bridge has been replaced.
Bridge has been replaced.
Definitely a year round destination! We had a great day of winter scrambling all over the Refuge one snowy day in March 2009.
Definitely a year round destination! We had a grea...
Aerial Anticipation 5.11c. In the Narrows.  Matt onsites the sucker.
Aerial Anticipation 5.11c. In the Narrows. Matt o...
Pear and Apple in Charons Garden Wilderness Area <br /> <br />Photo: Ryan Ray
Pear and Apple in Charons Garden Wilderness Area ...

Comments on Wichita Wildlife Refuge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 25, 2014
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jun 13, 2007
That damn Sasquatch!
By Cels
Feb 24, 2009
Need a Climbing Partner from 3/1/09 to 3/7/09. Any takers?
By Steve DiMarino
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 31, 2010
A few things you should keep in mind when planning a trip to the refuge:

It is VERY humid and hot in the summer. All the climbing that we found, except for a cave area found on upper Mount Scott, is in the sun until later in the afternoon. Even The Meadows, which promised to be North facing by the guide book was directly in the sun until about 1:30 pm. (Somebody please list some a.m. shady climbing if you know of any.)

Bring long (20+ foot) slings or cords to build anchors around boulders. There are few anchors on any of these walls and 10 feet of webbing isn't going to be enough.

There is Poison Ivy everywhere--even inside some of the cracks you are jamming. Be prepared to wash exposed skin and separate clothes soon after climbing. You WILL come in contact with poison ivy--at least in the summer time--it really is everywhere you look.

There are lot's of ticks. We didn't have any tick spray and my son and I picked off 30 ticks between us. Bring something for the ticks or you'll need to find good friend to pull ticks off your ass cheeks and possibly beyond.

Some of the trails (as of 6/10) are a bit over grown, destroyed, or unmarked. Plan on doing some wondering to find the walls. It is not that bad, just not the 15 minute approach promised in the guide
This is just a preparation list of the things I wish I knew before climbing at the refuge. The granite is wonderful and solid. It offers great climbing. I found the rangers very nice and informative and there is no charge for parking or park fees. The park welcomes climbers.
Enjoy, but be prepared.
By Tony Mayse
Mar 28, 2011
I've never had to bring 20'of webbing to set up anything. Cams, cordellete, maybe a couple slings if you're toproping stuff.

Poison ivy in cracks? Hmmm.. I have never had that problem.

Ticks. Yea, like any green area there are ticks but in the 20 years I've been climbing in the Refuge I might get one or two if I don't use bug spray.

A good early AM area to climb in the summer is..
West Face of Crab Eyes, Echo Dome, Hidden Wall, Lost Dome to name a few..
By Jon Wood
May 16, 2011
Ha! Get 'em Tony. Thanks for a great book. Make the trip from Tulsa several times a year. It's like heaven down there. A lifetime of beautiful climbs.
By ddupree
Jul 24, 2011
My wife and I are new to the area and are wanting to learn to climb and rappell. we have NO experience but are eager to learn. Please let us know if there is anyone who can teach this in the area.
e-mail: labrat_7300@yahoo.com
By ravisurdhar
From: Phoenix, CO
Sep 24, 2012
Accidentally forgot a blue Sterling rope in a black Metolius rope bag at near the anchor ledge of Upper Mount Scott on 9/23/2012. If anyone found it, please message me or email me at ravisurdhar AT yahoo DOT com. Thank you!!!
By Jonathan M
Feb 5, 2013
If anybody is having any trouble finding a certain area I might be able to help, I recently made a trail map with Google maps of some of the areas! shoot me a message and i'll see if I can dig them up for your. Great granite reminds me of my home Wyoming. The wildlife is awesome out there! Stay safe have fun.
By Matt Handley
From: Fort Drum, New York
Jul 11, 2013
Looking for a partner who can lead with a decent trad rack on weekends between Aug 18th and Sep27th. I'll be at Ft. Sill for a class and would love to check out this area.
By J. Pitts
From: Garden City, Ks
Sep 5, 2013
Anybody out there want to climb with me September 26th through the 30th? Could be any of those days. I'm a experienced climber, and have been to the area before.
By Ryan Sheldon
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Feb 25, 2014
oklahomabouldering.blogspot.co...