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This is a south-facing, multi-pitch wall that is comprised of slab, face, and roofs. It may also be known as the Sunshine Wall. It gets excellent sun and is perfect for late Spring through Fall. The rock is high quality gneiss with some exfoliation on the slabby areas. It is only 1/4 mile away from the popular White Cliff and is soon to be a similar, popular destination. I have divided the wall into 3 areas, West, Central, and East walls. Unlike White Cliff, the West and Central walls are not recommended for dogs or kids as a slip here would result in a 60-100'+ fall down steep slabs and ledges. It seems that Wichita Wall also hosts a few more challenging lines as compared to White Cliff. The approach talus is large, stable, and lichen covered but, when wet, acts like ice.
From Exit 201 in Frisco, travel West on I-70 for approximately 0.2 miles (passing the old mine ruins on the right). As you merge into traffic, turn on your right turn signal and ride the shoulder. Soon you will come to a small, grassy clearing. Park here. You know you are in the correct location when you see the sign (soon to come) denoting the parking area marking the Wichita Wall and the Ding Dong Dome, attached to the old high-power line pole "stump". Currently there is an old shoe atop the "stump". Follow cairns up the large talus to a path through the aspens to the wall. The trail splits, heading left will take you to the West and Central walls, heading right will bring you to the East Wall. To gain the West and Central walls, the trail brings you to a 6 step iron ladder and fixed line. This leads you under the Central wall and continues on to the West wall, 60m left.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall):
Zig Zag 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 240'
Scotch on the Rocks 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Goofer's Roof 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
The Gecko 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichita Wall)
Goofer's Roof 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Sunshine Buttess (aka Wichi...
This is a mellow line that tackles an awkard roof, low on the East Wall. Starting a bit right of the bolted line of Split Decision, climb up right-trending crack/ledges to a looming, left-facing roof. The crack system through the root eats ear, so plug and chug through the roof and on to the easy slab above. Work a bit right and finish on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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