|167 page views|
This is a so-so route with so-so gear and so-so rock. Basically it is a line along the lines of Primal Scream and On Slot but skipping the good and hard parts.
Starting to the right, on the pillar to the left of Primal Scream. Step right from this and up to the cracks of Primal Scream, then before the crux cracks of Primal, escape right to On-Slot (notably, above the hard climbing of On Slot).
Shortly thereafter, climb right around the corner from there to ride the arete (some loose rock) to the top of the wall. Go left at a ledge just before the true summit to reach the belay/rap anchor. A #3 and/or #3.5 Camalot will back up the rap anchor higher up for better belaying position and less drag.
This is on the upper right buttress of Continental Crag, amongst the routes ?Primal Scream? and On Slot.
A light rack from nuts to hand-sized cams can be placed. With careful judgment regarding the rock quality, it should all be solid.
Aug 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I found this much harder than its rating of 5.9. Maybe because of the lichen at the crux leaning weird crack/slab. Gear was good, though.