Why Toproping?
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Let me preface this by saying that I've done all my climbing out west and I've never really had to deal with access issues\landowner permissions\etc. so I don't have the perspective that others who DO deal with these issues have. That being said, I've followed the CT bolting controversy with a mixture of bemusement and confusion and I always enjoy watching people argue about Devil's Lake. |
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I choose to be a cabose but look where that got me. |
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I always top rope because it improves my gym climbing. |
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Leading is an inferior style to soloing. |
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Fear ... Whether justified or not |
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Well this should be entertaining. |
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bearbreeder wrote:Fear ... Whether justified or not Its that simple ;)If the landowner doesn't want bolts installed, and it doesn't take gear, then it's TR or nothing. It's THAT simple. |
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Gunkiemike wrote: If the landowner doesn't want bolts installed, and it doesn't take gear, then it's TR or nothing. It's THAT simple.The OP said "could be bolted" ;) Again ... Its fear, whether justified or not ... Its that simple =P |
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it also has to do with time. Most people have a limited amount of time to get in the maximum amount of climbing. Do you want to lead 2 or three climbs in an afternoon or do you want to climb the same routes 5 or 6 times on toprope? |
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Yep, lots of entertainment ahead for sure... |
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The more bolts you put in, the more climbers will show up. |
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How about this...take a static line and tie an overhand loop on a bite every 5 feet or so. Then fix it at the top of the cliff. Walk back down to the base and lead the route, clipping the loops on the fixed rope for protection. You can even make the loops "runout" if you want to get way rad. |
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Bryan G wrote:How about this...take a static line and tie an overhand loop on a bite every 5 feet or so. Then fix it at the top of the cliff. Walk back down to the base and lead the route, clipping the loops on the fixed rope for protection. You can even make the loops "runout" if you want to get way rad.I like it. |
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Bryan G wrote:How about this...take a static line and tie an overhand loop on a bite every 5 feet or so. Then fix it at the top of the cliff. Walk back down to the base and lead the route, clipping the loops on the fixed rope for protection. You can even make the loops "runout" if you want to get way rad.Just another way of top roping. If your going to go to the top before you climb back up why not just set up a TR and get on with it. The other problem with this is it does nothing to satisfy the ego. And lets face it that has a lot to do with it. |
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Sport climbing is just like top roping. The bolts are there to make it safe, right? Well, TR is the same thing. Granted, clipping some bolts along the way is a touch harder but not really by much and only enough to help blowhards love themselves more. |
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The OP actually poses an intesting question; it is always nice when someone takes a step back and asks "why". I don't have a horse in this race, but I do have a few observations about the situation. A few notes to consider: |
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I like how John Bachar referred to sport climbs as "invisible top ropes". And "Rap music, not bolts." |
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Jon Moen wrote:The OP actually... -This response is EXACTLY what I wanted to understand. Thanks for the post! |
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Jon Moen wrote:The OP actually poses an intesting question; it is always nice when someone takes a step back and asks "why". .....these TR-only crags are not the norm in the east. ..... much of it is tall, proud, and equal to anything in the west. These TR crags are the runt of the litter, but are all that is available is some rock-starved coastal states. -These crags were developed long ago (like 1940s), so by the time sport climbing came along, the crags were fully developed, the guidebooks were out, and local customs were solidified. that sort of inertia--60 years of it by the time sport climbing was invented-- is really hard to break. -If these crags were in the Front Range, they probably would have been developed as a mediocre beginners-sport climbing area at somepoint in the mid 1990s. .... If these crags were in Utah, they would probably remain unbolted and unclimbed, since you have better stuff to climb on. -These areas are mostly short and vertical, and grades are generally moderate. Yes, there are some hard routes, but there is much better climbing at the harder grades in other areas (like up in NH). Even if they were bolted, they would be pretty uninteresting as sport areas. They are generally frequented by gumbies and crusty geriatrics. Anyone sufficiently motivated to really want to lead these routes will probably just choose to climb elsewhere anyway. Serious climbers living in those states generally move away, either to the West or to more climber-friendly parts of the Northeast. I am one of these people; I started climbing in MD, and moved away as soon as I could. -Those strong and motivated climbers who are stuck in MD, CT, etc. generally satisfy themselves by training at the gym (they have great gyms) and making long drives to good crags. Honestly, the gym has filled to role of local training crag in those states, and does so better than any of the shitty TR crags ever could, regardless of how many bolts you install. Again, those motivated to sport climb generally just go elsewhere. -Land managment is actually a pretty major issue too. At most of these TR crags, you aren't allowed to bolt. Do remember that this is not the West, where you can mostly do as you please, but instead is the most densely populated part of the country. These crags are in tightly managed suburban parks. Climbing is generally allowed, since it has been going on for so long and has been grandfathered in. trying to get anything new through the bureaucracy that manages these parks is nearly impossible. .........-I would never compare MD to CT as far as rock goes, CTs worst crags are better than MDs best(Carderrock and Great Falls). I have lived in both places. -MD has great gyms, CT has tiny OK gyms. you are right about the hard climbers mostly training in the gym instead of the rock. -cliffs like these have been bolted in Utah, mostly in the last 15 years and they are fun. as you say though mostly easy to moderate but still fun as hell. I certainly would not want to lug all my top rope gear up to these cliffs to TR them! -motivated CT climbers have gotten together and have started a movement("bowel" some might say ) so they dont have to drive to another state to climb in the style that they like. -The cliffs in CT are not at all how you describe, they may seem boring, short and chossy after TRing here once or twice(10,000 times) but in all honesty 75% of the rock is perfect for bolts and what has bolts in it now is really really good and would be anywhere, even ColoRADo or Utar. I love a good top rope sometimes but if it is all I ever did I would take up another sport/hobby like hiking or paddle board yoga. |
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bearbreeder wrote:Fear ... Whether justified or not Its that simple ;)Perfectly sums up why you would place a bolt. |
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Eric Engberg wrote: Perfectly sums up why you would place a bolt.or place a cam/stopper |