Why Crack  5.7

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Michael LaPlante Submitted By:  Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

A fun, irregular hand-and-fist crack. Can certainly be climbed totally on the face, but there are some bomber jams waiting in there... One of the better Mentmore trad lines for a newish leader, since the rock is solid and takes pro well, and there are many solid stances from which to place gear. The crack jags left at the very top, and the anchors are left of that, so if TRing it's probably best to set a directional near the top. This was the very first route ever climbed at Mentmore!

Location 

The obvious large and jumbled crack left of the big overhang all the way at the right (east) end of the Health Wall. You should be able to spot this crack while standing in the parking lot.

Protection 

Trad gear to a 2-bolt anchor shared with "Reggae's Route". Bring a selection of large to mid-sized chocks. Cams probably work less well, since the crack is so irregular. The rock is fairly good, and takes good gear, including bomber hexes.