Who's On First 5.10d
| 1,382 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | John Maddux, John Hansen, Tony Calderone, 1995 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jan 1, 2002 |
| |
The scary - and probably seldom traveled - upper h...
Add Photo Printer View
Description Just to the right of The Great Chockstone, is a steep bolted face with some grooves. Climb the bolted line on the left up some nice smears. When you achieve the ledge, prep yourself for some thin liebacking to the top. I believe there is an optional extension of the climb that clips 1 more bolt on the way to the base of the offwidth on Crescent Crack.
Protection 2 bolts at the top of climb for anchors, and 4 draws for the face.
BETA PHOTO: 1) Who's on First 2) P1 of the Ross Connection
| W/o Lines
| |
| Comments on Who's On First |
|
By Mark Michaels From: Draper, UT Jan 20, 2005 rating: 5.10d
| Can be easily toproped: climb the first pitch of Crescent Crack, and step left to the anchor when you reach the treed ledge, right below the layback at the end of the first pitch.BEEFY bolts, kudos to the FA's! |
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Mar 17, 2005
| Might be better top-roped? The crux is off a ledge! |
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.10d
| fun climbing. good way to jib a slow party starting up crescent crack |
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Nov 26, 2009 rating: 5.10d
| The optional finish brings a change of pace with another 60 or so feet of serious climbing protected by 2 more bolts (only 1 drawn on topo) and gear on flaky rock. 1 star vs. 3 stars for the bottom half. Instead of traversing to the belay after bolt 4 step left on top of a detached block and clip a bolt. This deposits you on a gritty steep slab and marks decision making time: clip the 6th bolt and shoot straight up toward a couple of chicken heads heading for a grassy horizontal seam (super burly looking) or traverse right using tenuous friction to reach a blunt arete that can be liebacked for several insecure scary move. Whichever way you pick, expect hard runout climbing until you run into a freshly excavated #2 placement a good 20' above the bolt. From there it's smooth sailing up wide cracks to the anchor at the base of the OW pitch of Crescent Crack. 2 bolts, cams from BD .75 to 2 and maybe large nuts. Micros could be placed in the lieback section. Let me know how that goes. A 70m barely barely gets you back to the ground. |
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Nov 26, 2009 rating: 5.10d
| Also, this is the left bolt line, closest to the Great Chokestone. There's a nice squeeze job to the right of it that might confuse you since you can touch 2 of its bolts from the crux of Who's On First. |
|