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Pixie Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lascivious Conduct T 
Rhythm of the Heat T 
Scream Chuck T 
Silent but Deadly T 
Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey) T 
Srepopers Roid TR 
Swift and Silent TR 
Tom's Solo T 
Vaino's Lost in Pot T 
Who's First T 

Who's First 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Bill Squires and Craig Parsley, February 1975
Page Views: 3,644
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (70)
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BETA PHOTO: Route sketch (not that it's really needed!).

Description 

Unprotected face climbing along scoops and edges in mottled rock gains a slanting hand-crack which starts about halfway up and leads to the top.

Despite the moderate grade the lack of protection at the bottom makes this a popular top-rope or solo and a route which is seldom led.

Location 

Between Vaino's Lost in Pot and Rhythm of the Heat.

Protection 

Gear to 3.5 inches


Photos of Who's First Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First B6 climb and on the same day the ABCA was fo...
First B6 climb and on the same day the ABCA was fo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Who's First
Who's First
Rock Climbing Photo: Bluto soloing "Who's First". Photo by Fr...
Bluto soloing "Who's First". Photo by Fr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bluto soloing "Who's First". Photo by Fr...
Bluto soloing "Who's First". Photo by Fr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Who's First area. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Who's First area. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee nears the top of Who's First, on Pixie Rock in...
Lee nears the top of Who's First, on Pixie Rock in...

Comments on Who's First Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

My favorite solo at Indian Cove. An exciting solo downclimb also.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 22, 2010

This is a great route and agreed a great solo.

I can see why it is so attractive for the TR group. Nice moves with a fun crack above; making it a great introduction to climbing.

Blute....you go up there without a rope? dang, you're BOLD!
By MikeP
Mar 14, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Scramble up a chimney on the north side of the rock to access the two top-rope bolts about 5' from the lip in a good position for this route. Get there early on weekends - groups tend to set up several TR anchors and homestead. Its a good route for new climbers - hard enough to be challenging but easy enough for them to get up it.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 7, 2010

Best route of it's grade I've done in Josh. Excellent solo.
By Rodger Raubach
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

This is a very fun climb, and is no "giveaway" at the grade. It's what I call an "Old School" 5.6. Highly recommended! It would be 4 stars if it were longer!
By Steve Montesanto
Jan 26, 2014

My first climb ever. Around 1987. 27 years later I'm still hooked to the gills.
By Royce Robertson
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 23, 2016

First ever B6 and on the same day the ABCA was formed (see comments: mountainproject.com/v/holds-to... and mountainproject.com/v/mad-race...! There is an easy solo to the right of this route which is the quick way up and the climb up the back is a bit mellower. A favorite spot to introduce people to climbing and b-climbing!

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