Whole Thing 5.10 R
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Bradley and Mayrose, 1969. FFA: Hesse and Bruce, 1974. |
| Submitted By: | S. Kimball on Oct 6, 2003 |
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Clip this pin, very visible from the ground, and t...
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a great climb, but do not underestimate it given the old 5.10a rating. Locate a notch in the roofband left of Fat Bottomed Groove.
1. An obligatory stem off a fir tree starts the action, then nice moves up a white dike past 1st bolt (3/8" but old) reaches the break. Clip peg and another 3/8" bolt to protect powerful 5.10 sequence through the roof. Belay 30" higher from fixed slings looping a constriction in the crack.
2. Traverse left to foot of thin crack (RPs and a bit runout). The next 30' is thin, steep and 5.10a. Follow the crack as the angle eases (5.8 and more RPs) and finish with cool traverse right to a belay atop a pillar.
3. Go up, then diagonal right to the Pear's east shoulder and walk off.
Protection Many RPs plus a standard Lumpy rack.
It's safe, but it is not easy.
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Chuck leads the exquisite second pitch crack.
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By Errett Allen
Oct 20, 2003
| Definitely a sandbag at 10a. The roof feels more like 10b/c. I also agree about the 10a rating on pitch 2, though the guidebooks say 5.9+ (ah, such a fine all-purpose rating). The second pitch protects very well with TCUs and medium to small (i.e.: non-RP) stoppers. I don't believe I used a single RP on it though I'm sure you could use them. |
By Mike Carnes
Apr 17, 2006
| Felt like 9+ to me. Definitely not a sandbag at 10- great route though. Avoid using the tree at the start and that will feel like the crux. |
By Mike Carnes
Aug 9, 2006
| OK I've been getting crap for calling this 9+ from a lot of folks. So I went back and climbed it again yesterday, and I must say that, since I knew the moves 2nd time around, it felt more like 9-. |
By Josh Dulberger
Jul 24, 2011
| 2nd & 3rd pitch can easily be linked to the ramp walk-off. Difficulty seemed appropriately graded given other Lumpy classics -i.e.
Loose Ends
Orange Julius.
I found it somewhat run out in the more difficult section, RPs would help some. The 5.8 traverse was easily protected (not R at all). |
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