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 ADVANCED
The Pear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Devil's Lake Revisited T 
Dextrous Digits T,TR 
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 
Finger Tripping T 
Gina's Surprise T 
Good Timing T,S 
Heavenly Journey T 
Jam on It T,TR 
La Chaim T 
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 
Neko's Route T,S 
Northern Lights T 
Pit of the Pear, The T 
Platinum Stethoscope T 
Right Dihedral T 
Root of All Evil T 
Salud T 
Sibling Rivalry T,S 
Slippage T 
Sloper Ramp 
Sweet Sabrina T 
Thorazine T 
Whole Thing T 
Unsorted Routes:

Whole Thing 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bradley and Mayrose, 1969. FFA: Hesse and Bruce, 1974.
Page Views: 892
Submitted By: S. Kimball on Oct 6, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Clip this pin, very visible from the ground, and t...
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Description 

This is a great climb, but do not underestimate it given the old 5.10a rating. Locate a notch in the roofband left of Fat Bottomed Groove.

1. An obligatory stem off a fir tree starts the action, then nice moves up a white dike past 1st bolt (3/8" but old) reaches the break. Clip peg and another 3/8" bolt to protect powerful 5.10 sequence through the roof. Belay 30" higher from fixed slings looping a constriction in the crack.

2. Traverse left to foot of thin crack (RPs and a bit runout). The next 30' is thin, steep and 5.10a. Follow the crack as the angle eases (5.8 and more RPs) and finish with cool traverse right to a belay atop a pillar.

3. Go up, then diagonal right to the Pear's east shoulder and walk off.


Protection 

Many RPs plus a standard Lumpy rack.



Photos of Whole Thing Slideshow Add Photo
It's safe, but it is not easy.
It's safe, but it is not easy.
Chuck leads the exquisite second pitch crack.
Chuck leads the exquisite second pitch crack.
Comments on Whole Thing Add Comment
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By Errett Allen
Oct 20, 2003

Definitely a sandbag at 10a. The roof feels more like 10b/c. I also agree about the 10a rating on pitch 2, though the guidebooks say 5.9+ (ah, such a fine all-purpose rating). The second pitch protects very well with TCUs and medium to small (i.e.: non-RP) stoppers. I don't believe I used a single RP on it though I'm sure you could use them.

By Mike Carnes
Apr 17, 2006

Felt like 9+ to me. Definitely not a sandbag at 10- great route though. Avoid using the tree at the start and that will feel like the crux.

By Mike Carnes
Aug 9, 2006

OK I've been getting crap for calling this 9+ from a lot of folks. So I went back and climbed it again yesterday, and I must say that, since I knew the moves 2nd time around, it felt more like 9-.

By Josh Dulberger
Jul 24, 2011

2nd & 3rd pitch can easily be linked to the ramp walk-off. Difficulty seemed appropriately graded given other Lumpy classics -i.e.
Loose Ends
Orange Julius.

I found it somewhat run out in the more difficult section, RPs would help some. The 5.8 traverse was easily protected (not R at all).