Whole Lotta Rosie 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Andy Knight and Darren Knezek |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Darren Knezek on Nov 11, 2010 |
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Me near the top of the chimney.
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Description This climbs the chimney squeeze slot to the left of Thunderstruck. Scramble to the base of the slot and place some cams in the water pockets at the bottom of the slot and commit to the awkward movement of entering the slot. Palm your way up until you can pull thru the steep bulge ending. Ends on the same anchors as the route to the left, High Voltage.
Location To the left of Thunderstruck and to the right of the huge roof.
Protection Set of cams from 1” to 6”, .33” cam or #1 tricam useful for the squeeze exit.
| Comments on Whole Lotta Rosie |
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Jun 22, 2011
| This is a weird route. Entering the chimney was tricky, and exiting it sucked. The inside of the chimney is super sharp. It tore some small holes in my shirt, and I'd probably wear jeans if I ever climb it again. The rock all over is pretty loose. The belayer can expect a constant rain of pebbles.
Having said all that... It was kind of fun and is unique for the canyon. It's worth climbing if you're looking for some of the canyon's more obscure trad climbs.
I took a full set of cams from tiny to 6 inches. I placed purple, red, and gold Camalots, plus a #6 Friend. |
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