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Whoa Nelly 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Wendt, 2002
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Beginning the awkward lieback at mid-height.

Description 

This line makes for a fine warm up, with relatively big holds on steep terrain. However, the rock is not quite up to par for the area, and the movement is somewhat awkward.

Start on the left, slapping up opposing features to reach big edges over a rooflet. Hidden pockets lead to the arching flaking, and an awkward lieback on big holds along this flake works up to easier terrain and the anchor.

Location 

The next route left of the classic "Wotai", climbing the east face immediately left of the buttress.

Protection 

~5 bolts, 2BA.


Photos of Whoa Nelly Slideshow Add Photo
The opening boulder problem ends at a good jug abo...
The opening boulder problem ends at a good jug abo...
Whoa Nelly climbs the left side of the buttress.
Whoa Nelly climbs the left side of the buttress.

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By punkencack
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This climb is actually pretty good, however, it is not rated 5.11b. Judicious stemming downgrades it to a straightforward 5.10b. In addition, much of the so-called awkwardness described above is non-existent if stemmed. Frankly, pretty much the bottom half of the route is a cinch if you use your feet. This is a good warm up for Wotai.