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Who retro'd The Creekside Crag?
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Mar 9, 2014
So someone has retro bolted 3 routes, Chutes and Ladders (Anker, Bedford) Thieves Reprieve and Face the Fax at the Creekside Crag and added a 3rd route to the East facing wall.
Alien was the first to fall several years ago and now these 3. All so tightly bolted you could z clip. These routes were spicy, yet very climbable trad/mixed lines that were climbed for 20+ years in the style that they went up in. They were part of the fabric and a page from the history of our canyons and now they are bolt ladders.

What's done is done but my hope is that this will not continue here. There are so many options now in the Wasatch. The last decade in the Cottonwoods has been one of tremendous development of well protected sport climbs that require little gear, skill or balls. Please leave the climbs that require a touch of these things alone.

If you don't own/can't place the cams or don't like the run-outs then figure out where the well protected sport climbing is rather than figuring out where to place the bolts on the routes that are beyond your ability.
cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
254 points
Mar 9, 2014
Leading Blue Collar Crack.
I have no idea who did it but all those routes have been bolted since at least last year sometime. I remember climbing them last summer and being kind of confused since MP lists them as trad routes. Fortunately the lovely Isogram hasn't been touched. Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,281 points
Mar 9, 2014
in repose
An angle grinder,insta-crete, and a bit of initiative can fix this problem. cassondra
Joined Nov 26, 2008
388 points
Mar 10, 2014
cassondra wrote:
An angle grinder,insta-crete, and a bit of initiative can fix this problem.


I'm with you but I like to add a bunch of random items to the list to throw off the internet flamers:

I can fix that with an angle grinder, a water balloon, some scrambled eggs and a tube of neosporin.

I can fix that with an angle grinder, a rusty steak knife, some dolphin safe tuna, and a dog whistle.
marty funkhouser
Joined Dec 8, 2007
34 points
Mar 10, 2014
jeff lebowski wrote:
I'm with you but I like to add a bunch of random items to the list to throw off the internet flamers: I can fix that with an angle grinder, a water balloon, some scrambled eggs and a tube of neosporin. I can fix that with an angle grinder, a rusty steak knife, some dolphin safe tuna, and a dog whistle.


And a penguin.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Mar 10, 2014
Colombian Crack
Not funny. You two suck Maurice Chaunders
Joined Sep 21, 2010
11 points
Mar 10, 2014
Near the top of arm and hammer
I met the guy who bolted those climbs, he also put up a climb called something like a$$holes in leather (referring to the motorcycles that make hearing your belayer/climber impossible) further down the canyon, it's a really fun 5.8+ sport climb on the wave wall. I honestly assumed he put up the routes originally. Cool guy, said had put up a lot of routes in big, when I asked what his tag was on MP he said he didn't have one, and said he didn't post his new routes anywhere. Paul Wilhelmsen
From sandy, ut
Joined Aug 2, 2012
187 points
Mar 10, 2014
Also newly bolted in BCC is the anchors on Layback Crack (only a 5.5) at Storm Mountain. The bolts are halfway up what was the second pitch of the climb, right next to a nice crack, only <40 feet from the established belay anchors at a ledge, and next to a bomber tree if you ever did want to belay there. People are looking for excuses to use their drills in the cottonwoods. DrApnea
From Wenatchee, WA
Joined May 24, 2011
191 points
Mar 10, 2014
Not new at all. In the guide and on MP. He either doesn't know or doesn't give a shit. Either way sucks.

If someone who does care enough to occasionally check on what's up in the Wasatch sees this thread and knows who's drilling these bolts perhaps they could let the person know that what they are doing is not cool.
cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
254 points


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