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Redgarden - S Buttress
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Shades of Gray T 
Sticky Feet T 
To Night T 
Trinity Cracks T 
Vaporizer, The S 
Variation to Lower Meadows T 
Walk the Talk T 
Whistle Stop, The T 
Whittle Wall, The T 
Whittle Whisk T 

Whittle Wall, The 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pat Ament and Jean Juhan, 1964
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Pin [details]
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Kevin Currigan on Jul 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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The climb follows the sloping ramp, and then heads...
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  • Description 

    Begin about 40 feet down and left from the big pine tree across from Wind Ridge. Climb a ramp that angles up to the left and work straight up to a belay in a greenish hollow. Traverse right for 30 feet, then up and left along a steep ramp and through some bulges (crux). Continue on easier terrain until it is possible to traverse north to join the East Slabs Descent. It is advisable to belay as described above to avoid serious rope drag. Take the S rating seriously on this one.

    Per Ivan Rezucha: On P1 after the initial ramp, instead of "work straight up to a belay", I think the route goes about about 20 feet then traverses way right, past a pin, and then back left on a ramp (the continuation of the ramp that continues down and right to the large pine tree). This bypasses a difficult headwall. And on P2, instead of "traverse right for 30 feet", it's more like 15'.

    I agree with the comments above that this is a serious undertaking for the grade. Gear is pretty sparse and sometimes funky. Route finding is difficult.

    I think we belayed too high on P1. The belay was not bomber, and traversing right off of the belay was dangerous until I got some good gear in. If I did this route again, I would belay halfway up P2 where the angle eases off and the gear is good.


    Protection 

    Good luck. Small and medium cams for sure.

    Per Ivan Rezucha: We used a double set of Friends to #3 and a 3.5 Friend. Placed them all. Plus smaller cams and a single set of nuts.



    Comments on Whittle Wall, The Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 16, 2002
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

    The gear is definitely sub-par and spread out, so take longer slings to avoid too much drag or pulling your gear. This is an adventure climb that you will find some route-finding necessary on.

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    May 16, 2004
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    The description above is a direct quote from the Rossiter Eldo guide. We shouldn't be just copying guidebook descriptions onto this site. Much better to use your own words and add more detail.

    Besides, I think Rossiter's description is wrong in a couple of places. On P1 after the initial ramp, instead of "work straight up to a belay", I think the route goes about about 20 feet then traverses way right, past a pin, and then back left on a ramp (the continuation of the ramp that continues down and right to the large pine tree). This bypasses a difficult headwall. And on P2, instead of "traverse right for 30 feet", it's more like 15'.

    I agree with the comments above that this is a serious undertaking for the grade. Gear is pretty sparse and sometimes funky. Route finding is difficult.

    I think we belayed too high on P1. The belay was not bomber, and traversing right off of the belay was dangerous until I got some good gear in. If I did this route again I would belay halfway up P2 where the angle eases off and the gear is good.

    Gear: We used a double set of Friends to #3 and a 3.5 Friend. Placed them all. Plus smaller cams and a single set of nuts.

    By Boo T. Call
    Feb 28, 2005
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    This probaby shouldn't be your first 5.7 lead.We managed to pull it off in 1 pitch with a 70m cord, and for what it's worth, the somewhat infrequent gear was pretty much all in a nice line although the actual climbing wandered all over the place. Long slings for sure.

    Pin at 'belay' spot is a rusty angle with one good eye. Arrr!

    By Steve Marr
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Nov 21, 2005

    We tried this route a couple of weeks ago, and I definitely agree with the comments. The 's' rating on this one is significant. I used quite a bit of pro on the first pitch, but placements around the crux (just above the ramp) are difficult to find and dubious at best. The rock is solid, and there are good hands, but the [feet] didn't inspire much confidence. I also agree with Ivan's comment that the route description appears to be a bit off. Be careful where you place protection down low, and use long slings. I placed a bad piece or two that created terrible rope drag (not good, especially through the crux). It started to rain on us, so we traversed left to the anchors at the top of the first pitch of The Bulge and bailed.

    By Steve Levin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 12, 2007

    The old spinner on the neighboring "Sticky Feet" (not in database) has been replaced with Fixe stainless bolt.

    By Chris Zeller
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 23, 2008
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X

    The S on this route is deserved. The holds are all there but its steep and exposed and there isn't much pro on the second pitch.

    We belayed at some rap rings under the roof at the end of the traverse just before you cut right. This is a good place to belay as it minimizes rope drag and provides a bomber anchor. The initial traverse has good pro fortunately as this airy traverse is just as dangerous for the follower as the leader.

    Overall its a fun climb for the grade. Bomber buckets allow steep climbing without exceeding the 5.7 grade--thats a classic in my book.

    By Phill T
    May 18, 2009
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

    Think I did the first pitch. Didn't find any pins, bolts, or chalk for that matter. Pro was scarce, but my belay was good, not sure if it was in the right spot. Ended up traversing right, must have missed the part where it goes up cuz I just traversed right all the way to the ground. Guess I need to work on route finding!