Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Amphitheater Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
? S 
Best Jams in Wisconsin T 
Clinical Procedure T 
Off-Width of Death (Project?) T 
Whitney's Chimney T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Whitney's Chimney 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 939
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Aug 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Follow the left crack to a chimney.

Description 

This is formally known as the "Off-width of Death" which I eye-balled at 5.11 but upon actually climbing it there's good pro all the way and FUN chimney climbing at the top with a jug top out that goes at 5.9.

Follow the nice crack left of Best Jams to a pod in the Chimney with a no hands rest. Plug bomber gear and thrash to the apex of the roof and plug a #5 C4 to protect the top out.

Location 

Crack left of Best Jams.

Protection 

Finger and hand sized. Save a #5 C4 for the very top. TR is east to set off some trees.


Photos of Whitney's Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dimitry.
Dimitry.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the business.
The start of the business.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy in the hurt locker.
Andy in the hurt locker.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy, starting out the chimney.
Andy, starting out the chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dimitry.
Dimitry.

Comments on Whitney's Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Bottom of the route is OK but is full of spider webs and nasty looking spiders. I cursed Rhoads the whole way up! Once I got into the chimney the fun really began and that's the Type 2 sort of fun. Classic route. Bring a #5 for sure though.
By Andy P.
From: Wisconsin
May 15, 2016

A bird's nest, fully stocked with eggs and all has taken up a key hold (i.e. pretty much the only real "hold") in the chimney and I was unable to finish the route... must get stronger... or more masochistic.

Also, one can scramble to the top rope set up on this one, but it requires a V0 downclimb from the summit of castle rock, definitely the very edge of my comfort limit unprotected.
By Tradoholic
May 26, 2016

Feel free to massacre any birds in the way of your climbing.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!