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Elevation: 14,473 ft
GPS: 36.57844, -118.29229
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Justin Johnsen on May 20, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Mount Whitney Massif hosts the highest point above sea level in the lower 48 states. This trophy status just adds to its mystique and popularity . Especially on weekends during the gentle months of summer, crowds of people ascend its hut-capped summit plateau, and even more fall along the trailside or are turned back, unprepared or simply unlucky.

To protect this busy season circus from becoming a stop and go human traffic jam, the Inyo National Forest's solution has been to create the Mount Whitney Zone. Access to this area during the peak season is controlled by strict limits on single day visitors, and even fewer overnight backpackers. Advance reservations are in much higher demand than are available, so now a lottery decides who will attempt Whitney and its near neighbors (though a small number are available for walk in visitors at the ranger station in Lone Pine).

Single day visits are free and unrestricted from Whitney Portal to Lower Boy Scout Lake, Lone Pine Lake, and via Meysan Lake to Mounts Irvine and Mallory. All crags described on the Whitney Portal page are also free to use.

Day use or overnight permits are required elsewhere in the Zone. Everything in the Lone Pine Creek drainage at slightly higher elevation than the above mentioned free sites has its access controlled.

Backpackers from further trail heads have fewer restrictions on visiting and leaving from the interior sides of Whitney, Russell and their neighbors.

Suggested reading:

Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations page

Day use permit map.

The Whitney Portal Store website.

Recon: The Whitney Massif is a featured article from the 2014 American Alpine Journal with drool-inducing photos and topos.

Permits for North Fork

Visit here for permit application: https://www.recreation.gov/permits/233260 

Getting There Suggest change

From highway 395 in Lone Pine, take Whitney Portal Road west straight to its end at its namesake.

103 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: 14 - Whitney & Surrounding Peaks Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at 14 - Whitney & Surrounding Peaks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3 M5-6
 6
Winter Chimney
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 6 pitches
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 138
East Arete
Trad, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow
 242
The Mountaineer's Route
Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 125
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 488
East Buttress
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 219
East Face
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 211
Fishhook Arête
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 173
Mithril Dihedral
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Star Trekkin'
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 46
Western Front
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 60
Harding Route
Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 22
Michael Strassman Memorial Route
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
 35
Bastille Buttress - Beckey Route
Trad, Aid, Alpine 15 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2+
 10
Hairline
Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 5
The Sword in the Stone
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Winter Chimney Lone Pine Peak
 6
WI3 M5-6 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 6 pitches
East Arete Mt Russell
 138
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
The Mountaineer's Route Mt Whitney
 242
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine
North Ridge Lone Pine Peak
 125
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
East Buttress Mt Whitney
 488
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
East Face Mt Whitney
 219
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Fishhook Arête Mt Russell
 211
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Mithril Dihedral Mt Russell
 173
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Star Trekkin' Mt Russell
 40
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Western Front Mt Russell
 46
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Harding Route Keeler Needle
 60
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 15 pitches
Michael Strassman Memorial… Lone Pine Peak
 22
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Bastille Buttress - Beckey… Lone Pine Peak
 35
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0 Trad, Aid, Alpine 15 pitches
Hairline Mt Whitney
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2+ Trad, Aid, Alpine 12 pitches
The Sword in the Stone Mt Chamberlin
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in 14 - Whitney & Surrounding Peaks »

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