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Climb the original flake and ramp system to the left for full trad experience of climb an alternate start which has been bolted and is in a plumbline with the rap anchors on the first belay.
Once you reach the exposed and comfortable ledge continue up the dihedral. You need to exit the crack onto the left face when it becomes possible (about 15 feet above where the crack jogs hard right at a horizontal). Climb up big ledges to the bolt anchors. Rappel twice to get down.
This route is mostly face climbing near a crack and is a whole heck of a lot of fun!
From the road you can spot this line as you head north on hwy 11 back toward Slade. It is the first crack right of the obvious and striking arete. To reach it from the wall, hike left from the Diamond in the Rough area through a talus covered ledge. When the trail drops down and the rock is grey again look up and spot a short sport route with an obvious dihedral above. Begin on a ledge.
Standard rock, you don't need much smaller gear, mostly tight hands to fist sized.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 16, 2012
a single 70m makes it to the ground easily from the upper anchors- we rapped off right, i suspect a single 60m would get you very close, if not down all the way. worth checking, as the bolts at the top of the first pitch are in a terrible location for the pull.
also, the gods of re-bolting in the red should consider replacing the Metolius Rap hangers on this route with real hardware, and moving the first pitch anchors up about 6'.