Whiteman's Burden 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio, 1999 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Beal on Mar 28, 2002 |
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).
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Description This route is the rightmost of a trio of steep climbs on the far right side of Cactus, including Paleolithic Tool Traditions and Affluenza. It shares the first two bolts with Affluenza before moving right.
Start up some sketchy rock to a hard move on weird "popcorn" holds to a ledge. Thankfully the rock firms up for the crux which is a tricky crack. Above this the stone gets hollow and funky. The last bolt seems low and too far left and makes clipping the anchor extra exciting. Rick Thompson gives this route 4 stars in his book (it's even on the cover), but in my view it lacks sufficient independence of line or rock quality to be that good. It's worth a run, though.
Protection 8 bolts/anchor.
| Comments on Whiteman's Burden |
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By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Apr 12, 2002
| This route is sustained climbing and hard to onsight as there are many holds which are just out of the line of sight, but nonetheless worth doing. The start may seem a little hard to the second bolt but 'kneebar' and you have the jug in no time. I personally would skip it but my friend decided to give it a go, pumpy from the ground up. |
By Dan Green
Jun 1, 2002
| I agree that this route is tricky to onsight. When I climb it I blow the first clip off. Its too out of line with the rest of the climb. The jug haul to the mantle I found not tough as long as you mantel farther left on the mantel shelf and just use some of the pockets on the face to help pull yourself up. It was moving past the mantel that I got confused on. Don't climb it straight up. Traverse up and right to an ok edge to clip from and then get a killer finger lock in the lower crack area to pull for the big holds. The rest is big and straightforward. |
By Joe Collins
Jan 27, 2003
rating: 5.11c
| One of the best of the newer routes on Cactus Right. I'd give it 11c/d- considerably trickier and more sustained than the two hard-11s to the left, Paleolithic Tool Traditions and Affluenza. |
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 24, 2005
| This route is mega fun on super-solid rock. Sure it's not particularly hard or cruxy, but that's why it's only an 11. Well worth doing; great rock and movement. |
By Alex Whitman
Nov 7, 2011
| Hey Dan,
If this route is tricky to onsight, why are you spraying beta? Some of us like tricky onsights. Lucky for me, I didn't read this until after. Please consider editing or at least a disclaimer before your post.
Alex |
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