Start up some sketchy rock to a hard move on weird "popcorn" holds to a ledge. Thankfully the rock firms up for the crux which is a tricky crack. Above this the stone gets hollow and funky. The last bolt seems low and too far left and makes clipping the anchor extra exciting. Rick Thompson gives this route 4 stars in his book (it's even on the cover), but in my view it lacks sufficient independence of line or rock quality to be that good. It's worth a run, though.
This route is sustained climbing and hard to onsight as there are many holds which are just out of the line of sight, but nonetheless worth doing. The start may seem a little hard to the second bolt but 'kneebar' and you have the jug in no time. I personally would skip it but my friend decided to give it a go, pumpy from the ground up.
I agree that this route is tricky to onsight. When I climb it I blow the first clip off. Its too out of line with the rest of the climb. The jug haul to the mantle I found not tough as long as you mantel farther left on the mantel shelf and just use some of the pockets on the face to help pull yourself up. It was moving past the mantel that I got confused on. Don't climb it straight up. Traverse up and right to an ok edge to clip from and then get a killer finger lock in the lower crack area to pull for the big holds. The rest is big and straightforward.
By Joe Collins Jan 27, 2003 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
One of the best of the newer routes on Cactus Right. I'd give it 11c/d- considerably trickier and more sustained than the two hard-11s to the left, Paleolithic Tool Traditions and Affluenza.
If this route is tricky to onsight, why are you spraying beta? Some of us like tricky onsights. Lucky for me, I didn't read this until after. Please consider editing or at least a disclaimer before your post.
Quality route. I agree that it's tricky to onsight, so SPOILER ALERT: DO NOT READ THIS IF YOU DON'T WANT BETA.
The only real tricky part of the route came on the face after the big ledge. I popped off a couple times before I figured out I needed to switch my feet. Once I moved my right foot off the one good hold to the right in favor of a smaller one that was in line with the upper crack, I cruised it. But WARNING: it ain't over after you get to the jugs. My feet skated off as I was holding onto a sharp jug with my right hand, and I tore open three of my fingers and bled all over the upper part of the route. So anyone who climbs it after 1/11 might come across some dried blood on several of the upper holds. My apologies for this, but it couldn't really be helped.
That being said, I'd give the route two stars, but not three.