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White Wedding 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Michael Keiss, Fall 1987
Page Views: 1,735
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Dec 6, 2006

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Description 

Steep, powerful 5.11+ climbing on positive huecos and pockets leads past the first three bolts and brings you to the first rest. When you feel focused and composed move into the most technical part of the route- an insecure sequence revolving around an almost nonexistent vertical seam, and a bunch of very small pockets and pebbles ending with a dynamic move. From here traverse left, and get psyched to skip the eighth bolt and commit to the slightly runout, off balance redpoint crux. After clipping the ninth bolt, try to recover some energy for the final boulder problem and the extremely pumpy lieback section that protects the anchors.

Location 

Between Villain and Badman on the Aggro Wall. The most distinctive things about this route are the small overlap at midheight and the lieback crack just before the chains.

Protection 

13 quickdraws including the eighth bolt(skipped on redpoint by most), and the two anchors. The eighth bolt allows you to work on the crux without taking unnecessary falls.


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By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Dec 12, 2011

youtube.com/watch?feature=play...
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Oct 12, 2013