A nice route and a great way to test your mettle for some of the long pure friction routes at Stone Mountain. Or you can use it as the prelude for the Great White Way just above.
Climb up and right past diagonal dikes to a flake protected by a bolt. Move right on crystals and nubbins to another bolt, then climb past it on thin moves through a bulge (crux). Continue up and right to finish at a tree near the left end of the Tree Ledge.
Starts up and left of the Block Route, up a sort of drainage ditch.
Two bolts; a light rack is optional. Gear anchor at the Tree Ledge (sling the tree). Two-rope rap from any of the bolted rap stations along the Tree Ledge.
I find that if I choose my route carefully, I can get plenty gear for most of the route, from a yellow Alien through #3 Camalot. Difficulty, also varies greatly with the path you choose. Choosing the way with the most gear also means reduced technical difficulty.
By Shawn Heath Administrator From: Forchheim, Germany Aug 18, 2010 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a PG13
I found that following the way with the most protection leads to the most rope drag and makes the last couple moves difficult.