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 ADVANCED
Panther Beach
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Exit Cave Left 
White Wall Ball and Tit Crawl 

White Wall Ball and Tit Crawl 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A X

   
Type:  Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 703
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Mar 30, 2003

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Description 

About 50 yards South of the arch entrance to the Beachside Wall, around the corner from the largest cave, there is a spot where the rock becomes clean and white up considerably higher than any other face on the rock. This climb will usually be out of the surf, except in extreme cases, when you probably shouldn't be climbing in the area anyways!

At the base, you will find a large foothold about a foot off the ground, and there will also be a large pocket to serve as a starting hand. Climb the white sparsely pocketed face up to the sandstone horn 25-30 feet off the ground. Ther are several grips at the top that are only sandstone, as the white wall nearly disappears at the top of the route. Climbing is balancy the entire way, without letting up for most of the route. There are very few good holds on the way up, though there are some good rests if you look. The climb becomes scarily balancy at the top.

You're done when you can grasp the horn, but DON'T dino to it, I personally wouldn't even hang from it. This is sandstone, and I really don't think that it could withstand too many people jumping to it. There are several ways to get up to the horn without jumping.

Finally, once you've gotten to the horn, descend off the sandstone to the left.

This gets an vs rating despite the fact that the whole climb is over sand. Without a perfect landing from a fall in the last commiting section in the route (feet about 15-18 feet off the ground), you WILL hurt yourself. If you fall really wrong, you are going to need some hosptalization.

Protection 

Sand is good, crashpads on sand are better.


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By Anonymous Coward
May 14, 2003

Declaring that as a first scent is a little suspicious. Did you talk to any locals before making this declaration? I doubt that there is any climbable rock at Panther that hasn't been ascended yet. Unless of course you climb harder than Sharma who has been haunting the area for years. Also before young Sharma other local lumenaries such as Barry Bates, Doug Robinson and Andy Puhvel frequented the area. So if you wish to maintain credibility I would consider not declaring that as a FA. Sorry if I came across snotty, but...
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
May 15, 2003

This was originally listed NOT as a first ascent, and someone talked me into putting it on. I think that I'm going to agree with you, and it is now no longer listed as a first ascent.
By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 28, 2003

One should also note that the lower portion of the climb is worth doing, and you won't hurt yourself (probably) if you fall.

Stop when you don't want to go any higher and enjoy the route (and the beach).
By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 8, 2004

The whole thing about calling this a first ascent was that the most prominent holds on the face fell off as we were bouldering our way up it. This meant if someone had ever climbed it before, it was a very different bouldering problem in the previous years. Not fair AC?