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This is one of the finest short powerful routes in the New River Gorge region. When viewing it from the ground it is intimidating because it is hard to identify a single positive hold on the pristine white stone. Start by soloing to a large platform 20' off the ground. Be sure to stick clip this one before battling up through exquisite, well textured slopers.
The difficulty arises immediately after clipping the third bolt. Here you must bear down on some shallow pockets, make a long rightward reach, and execute a precision deadpoint to a one inch edge. This V6 boulder problem sequence is 5-8 moves depending on how many intermediates you use. Rest up at the fourth bolt and then climb a 5.11- section to the anchor.
This route starts on the ledge a few routes to the right of Toxic Hueco. Look for the pure white stone.
4 bolts + anchor
|By Will Anglin|
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 28, 2012
Great moves, great rock. Wish it was longer. I guess a bolt was added, because there was no runout at the end.