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White Trash 
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White Trash 

WI4+ M6

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 6 pitches, 650', Grade III
Original: WI4+ M6 [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,043
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Feb 5, 2011

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Looking up the second half of pitch 5.

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb thin ice and mixed lower angle terrain to a belay on the right. We noticed a fixed pin at our feet where we belayed. About 150'.

Pitch 2: Climb two steps of mostly ice (a little steeper) to a belay directly under the chockstones. There is a bail anchor (fixed pin and stopper) at this belay. About 190'.

Pitch 3: Climb out the roof with good rock gear. Belay on top of the chockstones. About 50'.

Pitch 4: Walk up snow to the base of the curtain above. About 200+'.

Pitch 5: Climb rock and ice up to a belay at the base of a thin couloir. About 90'.

Pitch 6: Walk up the thin couloir for about 100' to a break on its right side. Continue up and right to a group of trees. About 200'.

Descent: The easiest way to get back down is to rappel 'The Calling'. We were able to rappel down and right to the tree in the middle of pitch 5 of 'The Calling' then did a short rappel to the anchor on top of pitch 4. Then 3 more 55m raps to the ground all on fixed pins.

Note: We climbed this in pretty healthy conditions.

Location 

This route is about 100 yards left of "The Calling".

Protection 

Screws, nuts, double to #0.5 Camalot, single #0.75 to #4 Camalot, two 60 meter ropes.


Photos of White Trash Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is looking from the large dead tree to Ben wh...
BETA PHOTO: This is looking from the large dead tree to Ben wh...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a close up of the cave on pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: This is a close up of the cave on pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: The large dead tree we belayed from atop pitch 6, ...
BETA PHOTO: The large dead tree we belayed from atop pitch 6, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on the right side of pitch one. Not quite PG-...
Matt on the right side of pitch one. Not quite PG-...
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitches are visible in this photo. Pitch...
BETA PHOTO: The first pitches are visible in this photo. Pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper ice on pitch 1.
The upper ice on pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is looking down the lower half of the pitch 6...
This is looking down the lower half of the pitch 6...
Rock Climbing Photo: Under the 3rd chockstone of pitch 3. We rock climb...
Under the 3rd chockstone of pitch 3. We rock climb...
Rock Climbing Photo: The smaller tree with a fixed sling. Rap 100 feet ...
The smaller tree with a fixed sling. Rap 100 feet ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben starting up pitch 5, this is the steepest most...
Ben starting up pitch 5, this is the steepest most...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1.
Pitch 1.

Comments on White Trash Add Comment
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By Matt Pickren
Feb 7, 2011

This is my favorite route in Eureka. It is not a straight up ice climb for hundreds of feet. It will keep your attention on rock and thin ice. Get after it as I have never seen this climb form in the last 5 years. Enjoy!

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