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White Trash Wall
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White Trash 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 328
Submitted By: ARussell on Jan 19, 2010
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Description 

Start in the wide corner and work left at the low horizontal. Quickly move through the fun, technical face on small, sloping ledges, making for one or two somewhat strenous gear placements. Recoup on the large ledge before tackling the finishing roof where the extended anchor chains can be clipped before committing to the finishing moves.


Location 

Begins in the obvious corner at the White Trash Wall, 40' left of the chimney, Fat Crack (5.6).


Protection 

Pro to 3". Specifically nuts and #'s .75 and 3 Camalots. Sling a sketchy chicken head for encouragement. Equalized chain anchor.



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By Chris Prewitt
May 29, 2012

I found that big-finger sized aliens worked well in those middle placements. Also, it was nice to be able to clip the chains before really committing to the finishing moves. It seems that the long anchors might take away from the experience of doing the last tough moves with only a cam, that may not be great depending on what you have left, in the roof.

This is a good route for any area in the country.

By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Feb 16, 2014

Chains that hang down past the roof are gone as of November 2013. I don't know why they were removed, Just an observation.