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Start in the wide corner and work left at the low horizontal. Quickly move through the fun, technical face on small, sloping ledges, making for one or two somewhat strenous gear placements. Recoup on the large ledge before tackling the finishing roof where the extended anchor chains can be clipped before committing to the finishing moves.
Begins in the obvious corner at the White Trash Wall, 40' left of the chimney, Fat Crack (5.6).
Pro to 3". Specifically nuts and #'s .75 and 3 Camalots. Sling a sketchy chicken head for encouragement. Equalized chain anchor.
|By Chris Prewitt|
May 29, 2012
I found that big-finger sized aliens worked well in those middle placements. Also, it was nice to be able to clip the chains before really committing to the finishing moves. It seems that the long anchors might take away from the experience of doing the last tough moves with only a cam, that may not be great depending on what you have left, in the roof.
This is a good route for any area in the country.