The hourglass shaped white slab is quite distinctive on the approach. This is one of the great Welsh slab climbs, if not the greatest, it's a big atmospheric mountain route, especially on a dank and cloudy day. The slabs are more steep thin edging than smearing.
1. 5.10a - From the top of the shattered pinnacle traverse go down and left along the lip of the overhang, passing a shallow groove (used to be a pin here, not sure anymore) to another groove, up this to a large flake and belay.
2. 5.7 - Up the groove and a crack until beneath the big main slab.
3. 5.9 - The big lead. Cross to the left to the edge of the slab (Linnel's Leap in reverse), climb this to a pin (not sure if its still there), protection is sparse, the odd wire, small cam or spike to sling. But the climbing is excellent and engrossing, follow the path of least resistance which may involve stepping right higher up, finally step left around the arete and follow a groove to a small ledge left of the slab itself.
4. A0 - Let the rope shenanigans begin! This is the Lasso Pitch. Step back onto the edge of the slab, spy a tiny sharp spike up on the far right side and wonder why you ever came. Lasso the spike and swing across, up to the spike then 10 feet to a pins. Or free the pitch at 5.10+.
5. 5.9 - More great slab moves a long way up the edge of the narrow slab to a ledge at halfway, then more slab to the belay ledge.
6. A short easy traverse left to a crevassed ledge. This is where Longland's comes in for the left.
7. 5.8 - The overhanging arete above the ledge has big holds luckily, then follow a chimney to the top.
Bottom of the West Buttress, a small shattered pinnacle leans against the starting overhangs.
Descent is down the Eastern Terrace.
Wires (small), hexes (medium) and cams up to #4 Friend.
Marc Chrysanthou on the ledge at the top of Pitch ...
Pitch 3 - My finest hour on Welsh rock, literally ...
Following up Pitch 5. Walsh's Groove (West Buttres...
Huh? What spike? Marc Chrysanthou wonders why he e...
I still have that nut.
|By Nick Russell|
From: Bristol, UK
Jun 20, 2014
The pin on P1 is definitely no longer there but the one on P3 is (June 2014). My partner led the "lasso" pitch, but never did see the spike so freed it. Didn't see any pins on this pitch, probably gone.