White Satin 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Thomas Doug Phillips 1974 |
| Submitted By: | Bryson Slothower on Mar 8, 2006 |
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pitch 3 White Satin
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Description Start just left of Asterisk Pass in a bolted Chimney.
Pitch 1:
Follow the Chimney clipping bolts until you gain the face (do not follow chimney) and continue up to a bolted anchor on a flat ledge.
Pitch 2:
Climb the corner to a traverse around a flake up to another bolted anchor. (or climb the bolted face to the left of the corner to the same anchor 10.c)
Pitch 3:
This is what you came for...
Climb the stunning dihedral above to a tricky move right at the top.
Location right side of the Northeast wall
Protection Standard rack to 3"
Kathryn on Smith's biggest nipple (pitch 1)
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By Bryson Slothower
Mar 17, 2006
| It would be nice if you could rap this route. An anchor at the top of the last pitch would make it possible (I think) because of the newer sport climb that parallels pitch 2 and it would ease the crowding on the rappel route down the West side for Wherever I.M.R. |
By Drew Peterson
Aug 15, 2007
| To address the above comment... we did the route yesterday, and from the top of the third pitch, keep going another 25 feet up and slightly to the left. There is a bolted anchor with rap rings. You can rap from here and in 4 raps you'll be on the ground about 100 yards to the left of the start of White Satin. At the bottom of the second rappel, you do have to traverse climbers left about 50 feet to reach the next anchor with rap rings on the big ledge. This was a great route. The 3rd pitch is very very nice. |
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.9
| The fantastic third pitch makes you forget all about the nasty first pitch. I recommend the .10c bolted variation for the 2nd pitch.
We rapped WIMR in 3 parts with one rope. Pretty casual. |
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