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White Satin 

White Satin 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Thomas Doug Phillips 1974
Page Views: 1,743
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 8, 2006
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pitch 3 White Satin
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start just left of Asterisk Pass in a bolted Chimney.

Pitch 1:
Follow the Chimney clipping bolts until you gain the face (do not follow chimney) and continue up to a bolted anchor on a flat ledge.

Pitch 2:
Climb the corner to a traverse around a flake up to another bolted anchor. (or climb the bolted face to the left of the corner to the same anchor 10.c)

Pitch 3:
This is what you came for...
Climb the stunning dihedral above to a tricky move right at the top.


Location 

right side of the Northeast wall


Protection 

Standard rack to 3"



Photos of White Satin Slideshow Add Photo
Kathryn on Smith's biggest nipple (pitch 1)
Kathryn on Smith's biggest nipple (pitch 1)
Comments on White Satin Add Comment
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By Bryson Slothower
Mar 17, 2006

It would be nice if you could rap this route. An anchor at the top of the last pitch would make it possible (I think) because of the newer sport climb that parallels pitch 2 and it would ease the crowding on the rappel route down the West side for Wherever I.M.R.

By Drew Peterson
Aug 15, 2007

To address the above comment... we did the route yesterday, and from the top of the third pitch, keep going another 25 feet up and slightly to the left. There is a bolted anchor with rap rings. You can rap from here and in 4 raps you'll be on the ground about 100 yards to the left of the start of White Satin. At the bottom of the second rappel, you do have to traverse climbers left about 50 feet to reach the next anchor with rap rings on the big ledge. This was a great route. The 3rd pitch is very very nice.

By Bryson Slothower
Sep 23, 2007

thanks

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The fantastic third pitch makes you forget all about the nasty first pitch. I recommend the .10c bolted variation for the 2nd pitch.

We rapped WIMR in 3 parts with one rope. Pretty casual.

By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Warning about this route. Belay ledge on Pitch 2 and 1 can see significant and dangerous rockfall from people topping out on Sky Chimney. Be aware!!!