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Select Area... Below The Old New Place Big Enchilada, The Coffee Shop (aka Quickstop) Crack House (aka Estante Edge), The Doughnut Shop, The Gallows Edge Lounge, The New New Place Old New Place Overlook, The Pajarito Gorge Playground, The Potrillo Cliffs River Crag, The Sewer Crag, The Sununu Place Tortilla Flats |
Gallow's Edge at White Rock DescriptionFrom cracks to difficult sport, there is a wide variety of basalt climbing in and around the sleepy town of White Rock.
Different ethics apply regarding bolts and bolted anchors at the different crags; some are traditional only, while others have bolts and anchors. The local climbing community has had a number of open meetings and established this White Rock bolting agreement as a compromise for differing viewpoints and to allow for climbing of all styles at White Rock. Season: Year-round, except during occasional winter storms. You'll want to find the sun in the winter and shade in the summer. Like everywhere in the SW, monsoon-style rainstorms are common in late afternoons in July and August. Getting ThereFrom I-25, head either north or south toward Santa Fe (depending on where you are coming from), and get onto highway 285/84 toward Los Alamos/Espanola. From Pojoaque head west on highway 502. Highway 502 will take you directly into the town of White Rock, follow the directions to each crag from there. Other Resources:Several Webguides to this area can be found at: lamountaineers.org/zLOCATE.html The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Rock:
Polly's Crack 5.8+ Trad, TR, 60 feet The Overlook : South/East side
Upper Kor's Crack 5.9 Trad, TR, 45 feet Potrillo Cliffs
Beginner's Hand Jam 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Playground
Ralph's Revenge 5.9 Trad, 60 feet Below The Old New Place
Ralph's Dilemma 5.10a Trad, 60 feet Below The Old New Place
Holy Wall 5.10a Sport, TR, 55 feet The Overlook : South/East side
Cholla Wall 5.10a/b PG13 Trad, TR, 55 feet The Overlook : South/East side
Blow Hole 5.10d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Playground
Flying A 5.10d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Playground
Flesh-Eating Gnats 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Below The Old New Place
Way Beyond Zebra 5.11b Sport, TR, 65 feet The Overlook : South/East side
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) 5.11 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Old New Place
Left Twin Crack (aka Manic Crack) 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Below The Old New Place
Sinewave (aka S Crack) 5.11b/c Trad, TR, 60 feet Old New Place
Wailing Banshees 5.11b/c Sport, 62 feet Below The Old New Place
Unrelenting Nines 5.11c/d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Playground
Thorazine Dream 5.11d Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet The Overlook : South/East side
Monsterpiece Theatre 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Below The Old New Place
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Below The Old New Place
Face Off 5.12a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Overlook : South/East side
Featured Route For White Rock
 Straight up the steep, pocketed face right of No Exit and left of Cholla Wall. Tricky lower section to high first bolt and then it doesn't let up. Route doesn't see a lot of traffic so the holds aren't as obvious as they are on neighboring climbs and sometimes are a bit dirty. Staying on the face is 5.11c. Reportedly, using the arete on the right makes it 5.10d-ish although right at the finish there's an obvious hold on the arete that I consider on route for 5.11c. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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