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White Rock

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Below The Old New Place 
Big Enchilada, The 
Coffee Shop (aka Quickstop) 
Crack House (aka Estante Edge), The 
Doughnut Shop, The 
Gallows Edge 
Lounge, The 
New New Place 
Old New Place 
Overlook, The 
Pajarito Gorge 
Playground, The 
Potrillo Cliffs 
River Crag, The 
Sewer Crag, The 
Sununu Place 
Tortilla Flats 

White Rock 


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Location: 35.8253, -106.1922 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 20, 2006
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Gallow's Edge at White Rock

Description 

From cracks to difficult sport, there is a wide variety of basalt climbing in and around the sleepy town of White Rock.




Different ethics apply regarding bolts and bolted anchors at the different crags; some are traditional only, while others have bolts and anchors. The local climbing community has had a number of open meetings and established this White Rock bolting agreement as a compromise for differing viewpoints and to allow for climbing of all styles at White Rock.

Season: Year-round, except during occasional winter storms. You'll want to find the sun in the winter and shade in the summer. Like everywhere in the SW, monsoon-style rainstorms are common in late afternoons in July and August.


Getting There 

From I-25, head either north or south toward Santa Fe (depending on where you are coming from), and get onto highway 285/84 toward Los Alamos/Espanola. From Pojoaque head west on highway 502. Highway 502 will take you directly into the town of White Rock, follow the directions to each crag from there.


Other Resources: 

Several Webguides to this area can be found at: lamountaineers.org/zLOCATE.html

"Jemez Rock" by M. Beverly is comprehensive.
"Rock Climbing: New Mexico" by D. Jackson has info on the most popular cliffs.


360 Total Routes


['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',89],['2 Stars',151],['1 Star',102],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',15],['5.7',17],['5.8',38],['5.9',55],['5.10',87],['5.11',91],['5.12',52],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Rock:
Headwall Crack Left   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 55'   The Overlook : South/East side
Polly's Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 60'   The Overlook : South/East side
Upper Kor's Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 45'   Potrillo Cliffs
Beginner's Hand Jam   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Playground
Cholla Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 50'   The Overlook : South/East side
Ralph's Revenge   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 60'   Below The Old New Place
Holy Wall   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, TR, 55'   The Overlook : South/East side
Ralph's Dilemma   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 60'   Below The Old New Place
Cholla Wall   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 55'   The Overlook : South/East side
Flying A   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Playground
Blow Hole   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   The Playground
Flesh-Eating Gnats   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Below The Old New Place
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Old New Place
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Below The Old New Place
Wailing Banshees   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 62'   Below The Old New Place
Sinewave (aka S Crack)   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, TR, 60'   Old New Place
Unrelenting Nines   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   The Playground
Thorazine Dream   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   The Overlook : South/East side
Monsterpiece Theatre   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Below The Old New Place
Face Off   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Overlook : South/East side
Browse More Classics in White Rock

Featured Route For White Rock
When the finger crack ends it's on to the tiny crimps to pull over the bulge when you're the most pumped. March 2010.

Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Below The Old New Place
A beautiful slightly overhanging finger crack with just enough footholds and pockets on the faces. Shake out at the hand jam rest before a couple of thin, cruxy face moves to easier terrain at the top. Bear to the right up high to reach the anchors. Originally rated 5.11c/d, but general consensus is that this is a notch or two easier. Still, it's sustained (for White Rock), with no great rests.At least 2 longtime LA climbers swear this crack was not called Manic Crack back in the day...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

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By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
May 4, 2006

The on-line guide book is excellent, but I would encourage posting routes here too in order to get the climbing communities wisdom and perspective.

By Terry J. Miller
From: La Villita, NM
May 6, 2012

I have been out of climbing for nearly twenty years and am now back. I have checked this site against Rock & Ice #40 and old printed guides. I am finding many grade changes and general bashing of those that developed these areas into "modern sport routes". Please stop. The rock never has cared and never will care. Just climb and pick up trash on the way out.

By ozram
Apr 7, 2013

Terry, that is good advise for any area. thank you. i have seen too many crags littered and just disrespected. we are supposed to be a GOOD example for others.

By Tony Gonzales
Jun 26, 2013

I want to let anyone who intends to go climbing in the vicinity of Gallows Edge and the Old New Place to be aware of some idiots who throw rocks from the cliff above Gallows Edge at about 8:25 on June 25. My daughter and I had just finished climbing at Gallows Edge when a rock came flying and landed less than three feet from my head. We yelled at them, but the rocks kept coming. We called the police and they eventually left before the police arrived.