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Upper Walt's Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1995 Budget Closure S 
At Your Pleasure T 
Crack Queen T 
Drag Queen T 
Mojave Queen T 
Route Beer T 
Upper Mojave T 
Where Were You? T 
White Rain T 

White Rain 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Walt Shipley, 1989
Page Views: 3,178
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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D dave dooin it!

Description 

White Rain is a fantastic mixed pro climb; one of the few to get 5 stars in Randy's guide book.

The route begins on a large boulder uphill from Mojave Queen (5.11a). It is prudent to stick clip the first bolt before stepping onto the steep face. Sustained face climbing past six bolts on fine patina brings the climber to cruxy moves that gain the short finger/hand crack. A few challenging moves in the crack lead to the top.


Protection 

Pro includes QD's for 6 bolts, a few small TCU's (#1 - #3), and a few small - medium cams for a short crack to finish the climb. Rappel from a two bolt anchor with chains/rings at the top.



Photos of White Rain Slideshow Add Photo
Diesel Dave On white rain.
Diesel Dave On white rain.
Peter Croft leading White Rain.
Peter Croft leading White Rain.
white rain being led and crack queen
BETA PHOTO: white rain being led and crack queen
D dave .
D dave .
The pretty rock of "White Rain". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
The pretty rock of "White Rain".
Photo by Blitzo.
Comments on White Rain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Randy
Jun 3, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The moves near the top (up to the crack seemed pretty stout and definitely require care.

By Murf
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Deserves every star, stellar line..
Clipping the first bolt can be done safely with a "boulder belay". I felt the crux was past the last bolt.

RE: Description of rappel. There is no rap anchor at the top of WR. You can rap from the top of Mojave Queen, below and climber's left from the top of WR. It is a double rope rap for 60m ropes.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

When we did this route several years ago, and we felt the crux came immediately after the first bolt (which we stick-clipped). Add this with Murf's comment and you get the picture (alot of good moves). At the top were one meanders right to the shallow crack, dont be tempted to go up at or before this point. As I recall, moving a bit to the right of this before heading up made it easier. 5.10-ish in this section. Found rap bolts via the right shoulder of this rock. Overall a wonderful route in a pristine area. Highly recommended.

By Phil Esra
Feb 4, 2013

Tough climb. 3rd bolt looks old and dodgy.

At the top of the climb, on the left side, is a pile of broken boulders. Just left of this pile, 15-ish feet from the top-out, is the bolted rap anchor for Mojave Queen. A 70m rope barely got me to the ground by tensioning right (uphill), toward the base of White Rain.

By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Mar 25, 2013

The Rock quality cannot be overstated. This was exactly what I was expecting after all the queen mountain rock hype. Great route and, besides the beginning, the only scary part would be between the 2nd and 3rd bolts but it's all on positive edges. And yeah, the 3rd bolt is pretty rusty.

I thought the crux was at the beginning moving off a big ball of a jug. I'm pretty sure this was right after the first bolt. The top traverse is not too bad if you find the right holds. This is definitely easier than Mojave Queen.

Sustained, awesome climbing and rock for the full ride

By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 25, 2013

Walt rated this 5.10d on the first ascent.