|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Monomaniac on Dec 10, 2006|
|Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on White Queen||Add Comment|
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From: Morrison, CO
Dec 10, 2006
|The lock-off just before the crux of this route gave me elbow tendonitis in my left arm. Since this is basically a one-move wonder, when working the route you're basically obliged to repeat the 'one-move' over and over. It took me more than 6 months to recover from it.|
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Alternate less powerful and maybe less tendonitis causing beta for the crux. May only work for shorter climbers.
From the clipping jug below the crux, go left hand for a bad 4 finger pocket. Get a deep drop knee with the right foot, almost touching your right hand, allowing the right hand to get the undercling. Hit the left pocket over the lip with the left hand.
Also the right 2 finger pocket above the lip has been rumored to have been improved throughout the years. So if looking for a "natural" holds send, use the left pocket.
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 12, 2009
|I am six feet tall and have done the crux going right hand over the lip and left hand. What I did feel more comfortable when going with my right hand was using my pointer and middle finger to hit the pocket versus middle and ring finger.|
From: The Bay Area
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
|For what it may or may not be worth I found alternate semi-static beta that doesn't use the undercling but still goes left. I got the bad 4-finger pocket with my left, set the deep drop knee and crossed right hand to a fairly deep, but hard to hit two-finger pocket just below the lip and then cut and reset my feet to cross again left hand to the pocket over the lip. It felt easier to do it this way, but the boulder problem still felt at least V7 to me.|