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White Oak Canyon

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Upper Falls Wall 

White Oak Canyon  


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Elevation: 1,500'
Location: 38.62321, -78.31358 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 815
Administrators: Aaron James Parlier, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dallas Branum on Apr 11, 2014
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Upper Falls Wall. The top is a major viewpoint, wh...

Description 

  • **This is a work in progress. If anyone knows the proper names for any of these routes, or who made the FAs, I'm happy to include them.

White Oak Canyon is best known for the hordes of DC hikers that swarm the trail year round. What isn't as well known is that the area has incredible potential for trad, ice, and mixed climbing!

Jeff Watson's Virginia Climber's Guide boasts White Oak Canyon as the best undeveloped climbing in the state. Undeveloped is certainly the right word! You'll find no shortage of loose blocks, and the occasional choss, but you'll be surprised by the amount of good rock to be found as well! There are numerous crags to explore ranging from 40' - 100', as well as dozens of boulders to work.

For hiking info, check here: hikingupward.com/snp/whiteoak/

Getting There 

You can hike in from Shenandoah by parking at the trail head at mile marker 42.6 on Skyline Drive. It's a ~2 mile approach to the base of the upper falls, where the first good crag is.

Alternatively, you can hike in from below via the parking lot off of Berry Hollow Rd. This makes a longer approach to the good climbing though. (38.539489, -78.349186)

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For White Oak Canyon
Right leaning crack to the left of the climber. The block with the red x is loose, and should only be pulled down (not out!)

Elbows Deep 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  VA : White Oak Canyon : Upper Falls Wall
One of the best routes on the wall. It starts with fingers, moves to hands, then to an off-width fist/stack as it reaches the cruxy roof. Once you pass the roof there's a second crux with an awkward mantle, then smooth sailing. Watch for the massive loose block making up the right side of the crack just below the roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in VA

Comments on White Oak Canyon Add Comment
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By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Apr 13, 2014
Thanks for adding the area, this sounds like an awesome location! Any access issues or concerns? Great stuff!
By Dallas Branum
From: Charlottesville, Virginia
Apr 14, 2014
There are no access issues here, though it does lie within the SNP, so a park pass or day use fee is required to park at either trail head. There is no camping allowed at the base of the wall, and a prominent sign states so.
By Jonsie
Aug 14, 2014
Wow...forgot about this place! I remember toproping/bouldering in White Oak with my little brother and some high school buddies back in 1994/5 or so. Really cool area and we had the whole place to ourselves for days! Not to mention Old Rag right across the way.