The hot spot for hot shots at YangShuo, White Mountain Cliff is a massive wall leaning past vertical for most its 200 meter length. White Mountain is probably home to the biggest collection of climbs in the upper grades (.12 - .14). The wall is south facing and so gets sun all day long; while it may be a blessing in the cooler months it mostly is a nuisance in the commonly sticky weather of S.E. China. The steepness of the cliff helps it stay fairly dry in the rain. The cliff is getting massively popular and is a good place to pick up a partner if you're up to snuff.
There have been some access issues here back in 2009-2010, I'm not sure if they persist. The cliff is located on farm land and the local farmers would like to make some money off all the increased traffic. Similar issues in the Wine Bottle area have been kept (tenuously) in-check by purchasing drinks and food from the vendors that setup outside the cliffs, but I don't know if something similar has been established here yet. Implementation of a fee for climbing could be around the corner.
Browse More Classics in White Mountain Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Mountain Cliff:
Devil Sticks 5.12a/b Sport, 75 feet
Yangshuo Hotel 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet
China White 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
The Phoenix 5.12b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
White Devil 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Tsing Tao Beer 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Gin and Tonic 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
The Axeman 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Featured Route For White Mountain Cliff
White Devil 5.12d International : Asia : ... : White Mountain Cliff
The best route of its grade at the crag? Yangshuo? Certainly a contender, White Devil boasts great, super-fun climbing from bottom to top. Ramps up to speed early with a tough, delicate crux near the bottom, climbs to a tricky few moves at mid-way, then a pumpy ride to a super satisfying (and a bit sharp) thank-god jug. The finish is a fun final 10m of 11b-ish jug hauling -- hard enough to fall off of and spoil a redpoint or onsight if you haven't saved quite enough....[more] Browse More Classics in International