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Originally covered in white granitic rime, this one stayed in my head for a long, long time. Tyler Phillips helped me aid the first half and the line out right, which makes for excellent steep aid climbing. We broke a lot of holds, took some huge whippers, blew out some blocks and destroyed a few pitons. In the end, adding a few bolts seemed prudent.
Many partners helped me clean this with varying degrees of enthusiasm for getting dust in their eyes, nose and lungs. However, Mike Perkins had the best beta which he can't remember.
This is a fun line with very clean falls and bomber gear. Super huge jugs for most of it with two cruxes at the end that feel v3 or 4-ish?
This climbs the steep crack system through the roofs 50 feet to the right of Death of a Monarch.
yellow tcu through #2 camalot with doubles in orange and .75 camalot, long runners and a few quickdraws for the piton and bolts.
Edit to say I removed the piton and added a bolt 7/24/13. The knife blade piton was nice and hard to get out but also nice and rusty all along the blade. I think its been in place for about 4 years now.
Its a really good idea to belay from the first bol...
Eases up here...
photo courtesy of www.caseyhyer.c...
Getting through this roof is super fun!
I'm 5'6", so its doable for short people
Its nice to have your feet up high
photo courtesy ...
The final crux is pretty dang fun!
photo courtesy ...
The angle of the climbing
This gully is so broken and chossy its kind of har...
Sep 17, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
Don't let Tens description of the choss deter you. This route is completely clean and awesome. I'm sad he didn't name it "Leaf Blower" as he actually took one up to help with the cleaning.
Spectacular route. Get it on!
From: SL UT
Sep 23, 2011
Congratulations Clay! You really earned this one! What a long time coming this ascent was- proud of your determination and vision. Great pictures from Mr. Hyer as well!
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
IMO this line went from 1 star when intially worked to 4 stars = shiiton of cleaning! Pretty amazing line for LCC granite.
Sep 13, 2012
and 12b to pinkpoint?
Sep 14, 2012
Likely, not. :) I sure as hell tried a bunch but never could send it that way. No doubt it made it feel a hell of a lot less stressful and more like a sport climb to work it on pinkpoint. But started placing and cleaning the gear when we got serious about sending.
Now for the Riiight Line...
|By Landon McBrayer|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 16, 2013
Burly. A pump from the word go with nary a rest along the way. Good gear - we used BD .4 - #1 sized pieces, doubles are nice. I advise clipping the (2nd?) bolt just before the first roof (ignoring the fact the the whole pitch is a roof) with a 24" sling. This will allow the rope to run free over said roof without getting jammed in the crack. The crux (for me) was the last 10 feet before the chains.