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White Lines 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Mike Perkins, Brian Smoot
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer and Fall
Page Views: 4,188
Submitted By: tenesmus on Sep 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The first bit photo courtesy of caseyhyer.com

Description 

Originally covered in white granitic rime, this one stayed in my head for a long, long time. Tyler Phillips helped me aid the first half and the line out right, which makes for excellent steep aid climbing. We broke a lot of holds, took some huge whippers, blew out some blocks and destroyed a few pitons. In the end, adding a few bolts seemed prudent.

Many partners helped me clean this with varying degrees of enthusiasm for getting dust in their eyes, nose and lungs. However, Mike Perkins had the best beta which he can't remember.

This is a fun line with very clean falls and bomber gear. Super huge jugs for most of it with two cruxes at the end that feel v4-ish.

Location 

This climbs the steep crack system through the roofs 50 feet to the right of Death of a Monarch.

Protection 

yellow tcu through #2 camalot with doubles in orange and .75 camalot, long runners and a few quickdraws for the piton and bolts.
Edit to say I removed the piton and added a bolt 7/24/13. The knife blade piton was nice and hard to get out but also nice and rusty all along the blade. I think its been in place for about 4 years now.

The best way to rap down from the top of both Heisenberg and White Lines is to go off the top of the last two bolts on either climb (ie off the two fixed draws of Heisenberg). 1) Have the last person on the route clean it up to the bolts. 2) Lower that person down to the anchor of Gateway Drugs and have them anchor themselves in. 3) Clean the stuff at the base of WL/Heis. 4) Use the climber at Gateway for ballast as you rap a single down to the same anchor. 5) One 35m rap to the ground.


Photos of White Lines Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: I'm 5'6", so its doable for short people phot...
I'm 5'6", so its doable for short people phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Its nice to have your feet up high photo courtesy ...
Its nice to have your feet up high photo courtesy ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eases up here... photo courtesy of caseyhyer.com
Eases up here... photo courtesy of caseyhyer.com
Rock Climbing Photo: The final crux is pretty dang fun! photo courtesy ...
The final crux is pretty dang fun! photo courtesy ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This gully is so broken and chossy its kind of har...
This gully is so broken and chossy its kind of har...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting through this roof is super fun! photo cour...
Getting through this roof is super fun! photo cour...
Rock Climbing Photo: The angle of the climbing
The angle of the climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Its a really good idea to belay from the first bol...
Its a really good idea to belay from the first bol...

Comments on White Lines Add Comment
Show which comments
By zoso
Sep 17, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Don't let Tens description of the choss deter you. This route is completely clean and awesome. I'm sad he didn't name it "Leaf Blower" as he actually took one up to help with the cleaning.
Spectacular route. Get it on!
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 23, 2011

Congratulations Clay! You really earned this one! What a long time coming this ascent was- proud of your determination and vision. Great pictures from Mr. Hyer as well!
By vacano
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

IMO this line went from 1 star when intially worked to 4 stars = shiiton of cleaning! Pretty amazing line for LCC granite.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Sep 13, 2012

and 12b to pinkpoint?
By tenesmus
Sep 14, 2012

Likely, not. :) I sure as hell tried a bunch but never could send it that way. No doubt it made it feel a hell of a lot less stressful and more like a sport climb to work it on pinkpoint. But started placing and cleaning the gear when we got serious about sending.

Now for the Riiight Line...
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 16, 2013

Burly. A pump from the word go with nary a rest along the way. Good gear - we used BD .4 - #1 sized pieces, doubles are nice. I advise clipping the (2nd?) bolt just before the first roof (ignoring the fact the the whole pitch is a roof) with a 24" sling. This will allow the rope to run free over said roof without getting jammed in the crack. The crux (for me) was the last 10 feet before the chains.

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