White Lines 5.12c/d
| 1,836 page views Good page? (2 likes)  |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Clay Watson, Mike Perkins, Brian Smoot |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Spring, Summer and Fall |
| Submitted By: | tenesmus on Sep 17, 2011 |
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Description Originally covered in white granitic rime, this one stayed in my head for a long, long time. Tyler Phillips helped me aid the first half and the line out right, which makes for excellent steep aid climbing. We broke a lot of holds, took some huge whippers, blew out some blocks and destroyed a few pitons. In the end, adding a few bolts seemed prudent. Many partners helped me clean this with varying degrees of enthusiasm for getting dust in their eyes, nose and lungs. However, Mike Perkins had the best beta which he can't remember. This is a fun line with very clean falls and bomber gear. Super huge jugs for most of it with two cruxes at the end that feel v3 or 4-ish?
Location This climbs the steep crack system through the roofs 50 feet to the right of Death of a Monarch.
Protection yellow tcu through #2 camalot with doubles in orange and .75 camalot, long runners and a few quickdraws for the piton and bolts.
Its a really good idea to belay from the first bol...
| Eases up here... photo courtesy of www.caseyhyer.c...
| Getting through this roof is super fun! photo cour...
| I'm 5'6", so its doable for short people photo cou...
| Its nice to have your feet up high photo courtesy ...
| The final crux is pretty dang fun! photo courtesy ...
| The angle of the climbing
| This gully is so broken and chossy its kind of har...
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By zoso Sep 17, 2011 rating: 5.12
| Don't let Tens description of the choss deter you. This route is completely clean and awesome. I'm sad he didn't name it "Leaf Blower" as he actually took one up to help with the cleaning. Spectacular route. Get it on! |
By bheller From: SL UT Sep 23, 2011
| Congratulations Clay! You really earned this one! What a long time coming this ascent was- proud of your determination and vision. Great pictures from Mr. Hyer as well! |
By vacano Sep 26, 2011 rating: 5.12c
| IMO this line went from 1 star when intially worked to 4 stars = shiiton of cleaning! Pretty amazing line for LCC granite. |
By tenesmus Sep 13, 2012
| The feedback is this is .12d to onsite and .12c to redpoint. |
By grk10vq Administrator Sep 13, 2012
| and 12b to pinkpoint? |
By tenesmus Sep 14, 2012
| Likely, not. :) I sure as hell tried a bunch but never could send it that way. No doubt it made it feel a hell of a lot less stressful and more like a sport climb to work it on pinkpoint. But started placing and cleaning the gear when we got serious about sending. Now for the Riiight Line... |
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