White Lightning 

Useful info from the '06 Bingham guidebook:

"...located just west of the North Twin Sister, on the south side of a gap in the ridge."

"One of the classic layback/jam climbs of the City."

Great Route, sucks up #2 and #3 camalots. Used a number 4 after pulling the roof and glad to have it.

What a great pitch! The formation is super easy to find as it's visible and obvious from the two track road as you walk in.

Far better than all the other 10a's I did this trip. White Lightning was much more sustained as an actual crack climb than others since - and unlike much City climbing - there are hardly any face holds, just overhanging jamming and only a tiny bit of patina scrambling at the top.

If you like waiting in line for overrated moderates, go to Bloody Fingers, etc.. If you like excellent climbing in an uncrowded, remote feeling setting, then this is your jam.

I used a #4 camalot I'd back cleaned, a #3 camalot, and a yellow alien-sized piece for the anchor, so you may not want to expend all these pieces. #2 and #1 actually work very well to protect the climbing if placed in the right sections.

Sustained, bring every #3 camalot you own, more of a lieback than a jam, awkward and dirty. Could use some cleaning, otherwise fun climbing! Fixed Hex at diagonal lieback section.

More of a lieback than a jam crack? I guess you can lieback any crack if you want but I found the reverse to be true on this climb. Although, the crux (for me) was liebacking out of the overhanging hand jam roof. Different strokes, or, er, jams I guess.

Also, I did not find the crack to need cleaning or to require more than two #3 cams.

We'll have to bring our dispute to the route setter on this one.

I found a camera out here about a week ago. If you are looking for it the camera is in the lost and found at the visitor center.

Colonel, you've got some big mitts my friend and know how to jam a widish crack! When I climbed this route, there happened to be a slight covering of moss. Maybe it was because it had rained a day or two prior.

Nah, just normal-sized mitts, Alex. I was able to reach through or jam deeply in the wider sections, maybe arm barring the one really wide pod near the beginning. I dunno, it just seemed more hand jam oriented to me and pretty pure compared to other City routes. But I have a lot of experience at that wide hand size, and there's definitely more than one way to climb most climbs. Cheers!

BTW, I was just browsing one of the climbing mags and this route was featured as one of the underground classics at the City. Couldn't agree more!