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White House Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Behind the Times T 
Chemical Wire T 
Garfield Goes To Washington T 
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 
Grounds for Divorce T,S 
IHOP T 
Political Affair T 
Political Division T 
Political Prowness T 
Slant Crack T 
Smear Campaign T 
Susi's Garden T 
Tap and Die T,TR 
Utter Butter on a Rope T 
Wife Sentence T 
Unsorted Routes:

White House Wall  


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Page Views: 20,160
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 6, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: White House Wall with Routes

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Description 

White House Wall makes up a large portion of Emancipation Rockphormation on its northwest side. Garfield Goes to Washington is by far the most popular route on the wall, and for good reason. Make sure to visit this area for longer routes (3 pitches) and less crowds. A mixture of bolted and gear routes exist.

Descent must be made via rappel due to the federal off-limits boundary at the top of of WHW for all routes.

Getting There 

Park near Dire Spire and look for a trail heading east up the hill. This is hard to follow, but if you continue up the hill over large boulders, you will run into the correct wall. The divisions between formations are a little hard to discern, but this portion of the Rockphormation has most of its routes on the west face. This rock also has a few north facing routes if you continue around the northwest corner.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.7 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White House Wall:
Slant Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Garfield Goes To Washington   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Garfield's Forgiven Affair   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Political Prowness   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 420'   
Smear Campaign   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 320'   
Wife Sentence   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Chemical Wire   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Grounds for Divorce   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   
Browse More Classics in White House Wall

Featured Route For White House Wall
Working out the crux on Chemical Wire.

Chemical Wire 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : White House Wall
This route starts about 100 feet left of Garfield (downhill direction - when standing at the base of Garfield, looking left it is the most prominent flaky crack you see and you'll notice it gets smaller as it goes up.) Climb up 5.7 about 30 feet to a small pod which starts a right-facing dihedral. The dihedral peters out soon enough into a flaring crack that gets smaller then bigger again and soon enough puts you under a little 2-ft roof. Work around the roof to the right and you'll find anch...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of White House Wall Slideshow Add Photo
White House Wall.  Garfield Goes to Washington fol...
BETA PHOTO: White House Wall. Garfield Goes to Washington fol...
6 climbers on Garfield Goes to Washington
6 climbers on Garfield Goes to Washington

Comments on White House Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Brannan
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 5, 2012
Warning on the walk off, the back side of this wall is closed. Signs are posted everywhere reading 'Federally Closed Area.' Plan to rappel off the front.