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White Fandango T 

White Fandango 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Trocchi/Nichols/Madara '75
Season: Spring though Fall
Page Views: 889
Submitted By: David Houston on Jul 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: White Fandango follows the obvious inside corner t...

Description 

This was the first route I did in CT and I returned to it several times. The dihedral is steep and pumpy and the pro is decent but strenuous to place. Stout for its grade. Stem and jam up the steep dihedral which gets easier above as the angle eases.

Location 

White Fandango is one of the left-most routes on the crag. It is the obvious steep dihedral just left of the nasty looking Phantasmagoria roof.

Protection 

Standard rack of small wires through med cams.


Photos of White Fandango Slideshow Add Photo
Charlie lying back the start.
Charlie lying back the start.
Top of White Fandango
BETA PHOTO: Top of White Fandango

Comments on White Fandango Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim O'Brien
From: Branford, CT
Apr 28, 2008

The block at the top of the crux dihedrial is very loose- DON'T GRAB IT!
By Joel A
Jul 31, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The block at the top of the crux is fine now. Not sure how it was before, but I weighted it with my 190 lbs. 3 times and it didn't budge.
By steverett
From: West Hartford, CT
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Block on top of the dihedral is still loose but hasn't moved in 4 years, apparently.
By thebmags
Jun 6, 2013

Agreed with last 2 people, the block has been solid for the last couple of times I climbed it, weigh around 180lbs
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 7, 2013

Why not trundle it when the crag is empty sometime?
By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Jun 10, 2013

I pulled on it a few years back, its in there pretty good. I did put a giant skull&crossbones on it with chalk just to scare people away from gangbanging it on TR
By CTdave
From: Wallingford, CT
Aug 22, 2013

the block is solid at the top of the dihedral. I hung on it with both arms after testing it with a couple pushes and pulls.
By christopher adams
Jun 13, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

Gear past the crux dihedral is very spicy because of the flare in the crack.
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Aug 26, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

The loose block at the top of the dihedral is gone. However there is another loose block about 10 or 12 feet above this. This is very unfortunate, since you get no gear through there, and then avoiding that next loose block is a bit cruxy. If you grab that block and it comes out you're looking at a good 15 foot fall onto the ledge, and then another 15 feet (to near groundfall). Be careful.