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Unsorted Routes:

White Devil 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A4

   
Type:  TR, Aid, 16 pitches, 1200', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A4 [details]
FA: Brent Armstrong
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,843
Submitted By: alpinglow on Mar 12, 2001

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Near the top, on a pig retrieval mission.
2014 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I went to climb the Jim Beyer's route "Black Planet, VI 5.11 A4d" in March of 2001, a treasured adventure. At a point early in the route, I decided to follow what I saw as the reasonable line. I did the same again at the top when the topo ran out of topo 2 pitches from the top. The crux pitches were obvious. As I edit this 14 years after my ascent, I'm unsure it deserves to be called an independent route?

At 24 yearrs old, my views were different :)

Start up the Air Voyage/diagonal ramp for two pitches, 400 feet, 5th class.

P3. chimney as per Black Planet, short pitch.

P4. Beak and hook left and slightly down until a solid TCU is reached. Penji off this to an A1 corner, back clean, belay. I believe Black Planet moves straight up off this belay (belay 3), I saw fixed heads above me. The belay is shared.

P5. Climb up 20 feet of sweet LAs to a point were the crack runs out. Hook left into free climbing. Belay on a ledge.

P6. Dance left, belay on a ledge. This is a natural bivi.

P7. Climb a mega, 5.6ish flake. Downclimb left side of flake, and run it out up to the big ledge.

P7a. Move belay to right side of ledge.

P8. Maybe it is new, maybe not, this is 5.8 R for sure and climbs directly to the leftward rail traverse on Air Voyage.

P9. Black Planet pitch. There is bad rock requiring 5.10 climbing.

P10. Black Planet pitch. Boulder off of the belay with no gear. Belay below desperate seam on ramp.

P11. Black Planet pitch, Beyer A4+, thin heads in the long seam. I added one bolt 6' below what I believe to be Beyer's natural anchor, having missed it in darkness.

P12 Black Planet pitch, my favorite on the route. Heads in a seam end in a A2 grovel. Belay behind large flake.

P13. Black Planet 5.11 pitch.

P14. Unclear where the Beyer route goes, Robbie Williams told me it connects into Air City roof here. I moved straight right off of belay and negotiated the roof. BIG AIR!!! ending in OW groveling.

Beyer's topo indicates you have topped out now, I found two more pitches.

P15. Steep. mixed free and aid climbing culminates in a difficult guano mantle. Turn the roof into the horizontal bands. I drilled 2 rivets to breach a peg band.

P16. Some free climbing, pulling on gear in a womb slot, and a nice hand crack deposit you on the rim.

1 bolt was added at the belay 11, 2 rivets on P15 = total hole count.

White devil on a black planet.


Protection 

Standard aid rack, a set of hooks, 50 heads if none were fixed?

Or perhaps it is V8 and some slabby 12-?



Comments on White Devil Add Comment
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By Ryan Jennings
Aug 12, 2005

So, now that you've included this route I assume the nightmares have subsided. Have the moments of sanity left you too? The ones that occasionally entered into that peanut of yours telling you that perhaps you might live longer if you just stayed away from hard aid. Where have they gone? I remember your eyes after this adventure. Fear doesn't begin to discribe the look of horror you had. I remember the heartfelt discussion we had when you returned. Something about how stupid aid climbing was and how women and careers might be better pursuits. Something changed in you that trip. And as I recall not much later it changed right back! Now, I got you callin' me for more of this B.S. OK! I give! Let's meet at the base of High and Dry tomorrow. Noon sound good? Do it in a day? We got it! Heeee, heeeee! Really though, it always sounded like a good adventure but for gods sake you'd have to be an idiot to repeat yours or [Beyer's] route. What is it that makes a man go hang off shitty heads above a ledge without an audience or even a partner? Stupidity? A [screaming] cry to be noticed? Or, I think in your case, just a fine desire to see where we might go if we summoned up a little motivation and went for it? Nicely done chachie! I'll add some photos soon.

By ac
Aug 15, 2005

PDW=good chance of painful death in remote place.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 13, 2005

Nice job B, maybe I'll come do it in a push ;)-

B