White Dads On Rope
||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Tom Bohanon, Kelsey Bohanon, Tobin Sanson and Lynn Sanson|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||669|
|Submitted By: ||Lynn S on May 17, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: Defcon Area: Routes - Pink = Defcon 1, Black = Def...
Pitch 1 (5.11a/b) is a long sustained mixed pitch. It begins in a chossy, right-facing corner and climbs up and right to two bolts. There are two horizontal gear placements to get you to the bolts.
The crux comes passing the second bolt and getting established in a sweet, .4 Camalot-sized horizontal. Continue up on gear placements for 40 feet. You pick up a series of 3 bolts trending up and left. This climbing is on excellent rock.
The last 2 bolts are in somewhat chossy rock but the climbing is not as hard as below, break right to the obvious ledge. End at the second belay ledge of DEFCON 1
Pitch 2 (11b) goes up and slightly right (4 bolts in excellent rock), skirting the right side of the obvious roof above, a long sling on the bolt under the roof is helpful.
This roof looks inviting but does have some hollow sounding sections. As you pass right of the roof you will encounter a 5 foot section of chossy rock, and then back into bullet quartzite with a bolt. There are a couple of horizontals in the choss but I did not want anyone placing gear in the hollow sections, so hence the bolt. The moves in the choss are in the 5.9 range and go by quickly.
Climb up passing some good horizontals for gear and 3 more bolts to a two bolt anchor on a ledge. As you surmount the last bulge to the anchor, look for a key sidepull on the left. The ledge still needs some cleaning so tread carefully.
White Dads starts 20 feet left of the 10b variation to DEFCON 1
. Look for the shallow, chossy corner with two tightly spaced bolts about 20 feet up and you are there.
Bolts and gear from yellow Metolius TCU to a yellow Camalot. Doubles in the small sizes recommended. Fixed anchors. A combination of 14 draws and double runners will suffice.
Tom Bohanon leading pitch 1 in 1980s Patagonia fle...
Pants circa 1960s, Bo just about to the anchor.
By Lynn S
May 17, 2010
Route is equipped as of 5/30/10. The roof above the start of pitch two does sound hollow in places. I bolted this pitch to take you around the roof to the right. It does not seem to want to move but the hollow sound is not my favorite sound.
This pitch is about 80 feet and except for about 6 feet, it is on excellent rock. The tightly spaced bolts are there to keep you off the belayer and ledge and then give you protection just below and above the chossy section.