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Shortoff Mountain
Routes Sorted
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Appalachain Chuffer T 
Appalachain Runt T 
Between The Lines T 
Big Arete, The T 
Bonsai T 
Built to Tilt T 
Change Up T 
Comfortably Numb T 
Construction Job T 
Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 
Desp-arete S 
Dopey Duck T 
Early Times T 
Energizer T,S 
Enterprise, The T 
False Paradise T 
Finders Keepers T 
Fly By T 
Footloose T 
For The Birds T 
Full Tilt Boogie T 
Golden Rule T,S 
Help Mr. Wizard T 
Humdinger T 
Julia T 
Just Another Pretty Face T,S 
Last Straw, The T,S 
Learning to fly T 
Little Corner T 
Lost and Found T,S 
Made in the shade T 
Maginot Line T 
Maginot Roof T 
Paradise Alley T 
Paradise City T 
Paradise Lost T 
Pinball Wizard T 
Reacharound T 
Saddle Up T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stopperhead Arete T 
Straight and Narrow T 
Supercrack  T 
Toxic Shock T 
Trick Or Treat T 
Turn and Burn T 
Twist of fate T 
White Corner T 
White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

White Corner 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ralph Fickel, Jeep Barrett, 1982
Page Views: 1,111
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Pierre finishing up White Corner

Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great mix of stemming, jamming, and jug pulling. NOTE: The route length includes the approach pitch (whichever you choose) to get to the Corner, which begins about 100' up the wall.
P1: Climb either White Russians Gone Bananas (11a) or Early Times (9) to access the corner. 100'
P2: Stem, jam, and pull your way through the corner, eventually exiting to the right below a roof. Belay shortly after moving out of the corner. NOTE: There is a variation, Sword of the Lord, that takes off to the left somewhere up here. It's described in the book, but I haven't done it. 10a, 60'.
P3: Pull a steep roof just above the belay and continue up lower and lower angle terrain. Set a belay when it's convenient. 5.9, 150'.

Location 

Locate the very large left-facing corner directly above White Russians Gone Bananas, about 100' up.

Protection 

Standard Shortoff rack (set of stoppers, doubles from blue TCU-#1 camalot, 1 #2)


Photos of White Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Tim belaying below the White Corner. Photo...
View of Tim belaying below the White Corner. Photo...

Comments on White Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 4, 2008

It is much better to do this route by linking the "White Corner" with the first section of "Sword Of The Lord". Climb the corner to the end. Instead of belaying here, do a short traverse out left under the roof past a good #3 camelot and onto "Sword Of The Lord". Climb up to bolt at the first opportunity, then continue up HUGE holds to a good ledge for a nice comfy belay. Sword Of The Lord is a very tame 10a, as is White Corner.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 10, 2011

Good but short. I definitely recommended the same linkup as Nathan. If you belay below White Corner, you can stretch the rope all the way up to a pine tree and then just scramble off making the entire climb only 2 pitches. Combined with all three of the routes, the overall route is three stars.
By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Dec 7, 2015

Re-iterating what Nbrown and TomCaldwell stated. If you are doing the “Sword of the Lord Variation” (which you should), Link it as 1 pitch with White Corner.

We took Early Times approach and it’s not bad. It is just some lichen gardening since it doesn't get much traffic. It'll get better as it would clean up, (there is 1 sketchy flake to be mindful of.)

At the top of the White corner, I didn't find the #3 spot before the bolt (Thinking back, I may have traverse below it), but there is a small pod where Purple 0 TCU went perfectly. I did like having a #3 for above the bolt too, it fit nicely in the giant slot.

After hitting the ledge and we belayed there. It was 1 more pitch of Shortoff jug scrambling to the top.

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