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Shortoff Mountain
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Pinball Wizard 
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Twist of fate 
White Corner 
White Russians Gone Bananas 
Unsorted Routes:

White Corner 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ralph Fickel, Jeep Barrett, 1982
Page Views: 810
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 18, 2007
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Pierre finishing up White Corner

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  • Description 

    Great mix of stemming, jamming, and jug pulling. NOTE: The route length includes the approach pitch (whichever you choose) to get to the Corner, which begins about 100' up the wall.
    P1: Climb either White Russians Gone Bananas (11a) or Early Times (9) to access the corner. 100'
    P2: Stem, jam, and pull your way through the corner, eventually exiting to the right below a roof. Belay shortly after moving out of the corner. NOTE: There is a variation, Sword of the Lord, that takes off to the left somewhere up here. It's described in the book, but I haven't done it. 10a, 60'.
    P3: Pull a steep roof just above the belay and continue up lower and lower angle terrain. Set a belay when it's convenient. 5.9, 150'.


    Location 

    Locate the very large left-facing corner directly above White Russians Gone Bananas, about 100' up.


    Protection 

    Standard Shortoff rack (set of stoppers, doubles from blue TCU-#1 camalot, 1 #2)



    Comments on White Corner Add Comment
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    By nbrown
    From: western NC
    Jan 4, 2008

    It is much better to do this route by linking the "White Corner" with the first section of "Sword Of The Lord". Climb the corner to the end. Instead of belaying here, do a short traverse out left under the roof past a good #3 camelot and onto "Sword Of The Lord". Climb up to bolt at the first opportunity, then continue up HUGE holds to a good ledge for a nice comfy belay. Sword Of The Lord is a very tame 10a, as is White Corner.

    By TomCaldwell
    From: Clemson, S.C.
    Oct 10, 2011

    Good but short. I definitely recommended the same linkup as Nathan. If you belay below White Corner, you can stretch the rope all the way up to a pine tree and then just scramble off making the entire climb only 2 pitches. Combined with all three of the routes, the overall route is three stars.