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Industrial Wall
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White Collar Redneck S,TR 

White Collar Redneck 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Reynolds, Bateman, Dunleavy
Page Views: 1,461
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Keeping you on your toes- the tricky upper slab.

Description 

This climb is the 3rd bolted line at Industrial Wall. It starts easier than the 10's on either side, but the roof creates a problem. Once solved the upper face is good and consistent.

Protection 

White Collar Redneck requires 8 draws for the route and 2 more for the top.


Photos of White Collar Redneck Slideshow Add Photo
Working through the roof sequence, and what a roof sequence!
Working through the roof sequence, and what a roof...
The crux.
The crux.
Pulling through the overlap.
Pulling through the overlap.

Comments on White Collar Redneck Add Comment
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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 8, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Climbed this on TR about a month ago. I was beat from climbing about everything else on the wall but the route looked to nice not to try it. The first slabby part is probably easier than the ones on either side, but once you get under the roof the business begins. It looks small from the ground, but the holds on the lip are not too great (right hand crimp has a knob on it that prevents you from getting more than 2 fingers on) and the feet are low and slippery. The move to reach the slot is fairly long (I had to do it dynamic) and then matching in it seems unlikely. Crazy balance and a hand heel match on the sidepull helps :) Once you're over the roof you can breathe but only for a second: the slab is not too steep but is truly 11b, and the holds are few and far apart. Hand-foot matching everywhere, a lot of smeared feet and thin crimps got me to the top. I'm still surprised I didn't peel right off some of the moves !
By Ben Folsom
Aug 23, 2008

That was a good description. Great route!
By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 14, 2012

I think this is the best route on the wall. Pulling that roof is amazing and the slab above is crazy good. Hand foot matches on little edges.....perfect. Union Dues is really good, but this one is even better.
By RMBarrus
Oct 16, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

For me, the roof sequence had to be executed quickly and precisely and then the slabbiness begins! What a slab indeed. Trusting in those feet, staying calm, remembering to breathe, and committing to a move once you've decided on it is key. Super Rad Route!
By wasatch boy
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 9, 2014

Great route that is continuously engaging from the roof onward. I found the adult 'Depends' diaper I was wearing helped quite a lot with the slabby upper section. It's all there, but you've got to trust your feet.
By Danie White
From: SLC, UT
Jun 10, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Fantastic route!! I'm tempted to give this one four stars. I'm 5'4" and I managed to onsight the roof by getting my feet high on that neck of rock connecting the lower slab and the roof, deadpointing one hand into the narrow bottom of the slot and, since I couldn't find another handhold within reach, matching on top of my own hand. My chest was pegged against the stone at this point due to the reach factor, which made getting my feet up exciting... but doable.

And then the top keeps you working for it, for sure. But the bolts are always in the right place. FUN!
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 27, 2014

I was really impressed with this route. Fun bottom, cool roof moves and a heady slab. One of the best I've done in LCC.