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Quite popular and deservedly so, this portion of the White Cliffs is stacked with quality routes in a remote-feeling but accessible location. Highlights here include Popular Mechanics (5.9), Ace of Spades (5.9) and Good Housekeeping (5.11a).
Standard approach from Quail Springs Picnic Area then head left along the cliffband when at the base. Plan on 30-40 minutes from the car.
18 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side:
Popular Mechanics 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Ace of Spades 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Make or Break Flake 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Stone Hinge 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Field and Stream 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Good Housekeeping 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Conqueror Worm 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
Field and Stream 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
This link-up connects the start of Good Housekeeping to Stone Hinge, offering a 35 meter pitch of varied climbing on excellent rock. One of the longest and best pitches on the White Cliffs.Begin with the start of Good Housekeeping. After the first bolt (5.10c) continue up the vertical crack to a ledge. Step left onto an arete and climb a slabby ramp past 5 new bolts (5.10-), then move right and jam a short but sweet finger crack (now on Stone Hinge). Move left at a horizontal fingertip crack to...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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