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White and Young T 

White and Young 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Bradley White, Craig Young, 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 848
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: The orange line is it.

Description 

I led up with no protection in the corner (5-3) on the left side of the slabs very close to the Black Dike and entered the arch moving to the left doing some tricky (5-5) moves at the top of the arch and then a run out onto easier (5-4) climbing across the slab moving right into the cubbyhole like place with a five foot ceiling above it to belay. This is where a rappel station-belay is now set up with pins. From under this ceiling I led up right underneath the ceiling and up around it to these incredibly big stacked and cracked solid sections of rock to get into a large long vertical crack system. I went up easily (5-4) the crack 30 ft and at its end moved horizontally right to intersect with Shadey Grove. I contrived a belay, belayed Craig up and we finished up Shadey Grove’s 2nd pitch. Long run outs on solid rock.

Location 

Close to the Black Dike is a left facing corner. Start here.

Protection 

inadequate fixed pins on first pitch. Fixed belay-rappel pins. Minimal trad. rack. Nothing large needed.


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