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Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
Routes Sorted
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Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102) T 
Bryant Gumbel T 
Duck, Duck, Goose T 
Gander Slander TR 
Grandpa Gander T 
Granny Goose T 
Jane Pauley T 
Jon Crowley T 
Left Route T 
Middle Hand of Darkness T,TR 
Mongoose T 
Mother Goose T 
Pump Up the Volume T 
Right Route T 
Stake Your Claim T 
To Air Is Human T 
Uncle Fester T 
Whistling Sphincter TR 

Whistling Sphincter 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 16'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Powell '83
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: caughtinside on Apr 3, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Whistling Sphincter begins from the ledge, not the...


This is the thin crack on the summit block just right of the top of Uncle Fester. Pull the brutal thin moves to get established on real holds, then hang on and climb to the summit.


On the upper block just right of Uncle Fester.


Top rope

Photos of Whistling Sphincter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A closer look.
BETA PHOTO: A closer look.

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By Howard.
Apr 29, 2015

My beta: start with right leg on higher ground on right side and left foot on very high sloping ledge to left. Right hand on obvious pod and left hand on microcrimp (which has now broken and is much worse). Work up to block (that follows the seam up) with very sharp one finger crimp on the block's upper right. First real hold is small left facing protruding flake. But next footholds to get you there are pretty awful to non-existent.

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