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Whistler Canyon Trailhead (Oroville)

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Whistler Canyon Trailhead (Oroville) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,000'
Location: 48.90304, -119.42285 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,429
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: applewood on May 27, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: WCT topo

Description 

Located about 14 miles north of Tonasket, and 3 miles south of Oroville, Whistler Canyon Trailhead is the only public access to the west side of Mt Hull from highway 97. It is being managed cooperatively by Okanogan County, BLM, the Forest Service, The Backcountry Horseman, Pacific NW Trails Association and other local user groups.

One aspect of this area is that each cliff though relatively small is distinct and delightful in the quality of the hiking and climbing experiences. The rock cleans up to provide excellent climbing (on what is sometimes the best quality rock in Okanogan County), and there is plenty of shade at different times of the day. It is also possible to climb here every month of the year, weather permitting.

Access from Hwy 97 is directly across from Gavin Rd (turn East up the white gravel road). The trail map and climbers kiosk is at the edge of the parking circle. Climbers information is on the back side of the kiosk. The trail (#100) to the main canyons (Whistler and North Canyons) begins just east of the parking area and heads north before turning SSE up the hillside to the old road bed. To access the NW Face hike north along the orchard fence line, for the North Canyon (and Windy Point) climbing follow trail #100 up a quarter mile, and turn left and follow the trail north towards “Frog Pond”.

The main Whistler Canyon hiking/biking/horse trail (#100) is on up the main canyon to the East (ending after 11 miles near Summit Lake). There is an abundance of other wildlife to encounter here, including turkey, hawk, eagle, vulture, sheep, coyote, deer, bear and cougar. Watch out for rattle snakes from early-April to late-October, especially in loose rocky areas.

There are now over 80 (mostly bolted) routes established, on good to excellent rock (granodiorite and gneiss), ranging from 5.3 to 5.12+, 50 to 300' long. Lots of climbing variety exists in a relatively compact area. Generally the bolting ethic here expects gear to be used when possible and safe. Be prepared for loose and/or dirty rock in places; helmets are advised!. The grading (especially in the lower grades) tends to follow old school standards, rather than newer and softer trends.

  • Note to all climbers this is the most popular family friendly hiking area in the Okanogan Valley, please do your best to minimize your impact and presence; pack it in-pack it out, and leave no trace. Potential route developers, please respect local etiquette and make any bolts or top anchors camouflaged, use stainless steel hardware as much as possible and don't mix your metals. Any comments and input on existing or new routes is much appreciated.

  • Note - a key to route descriptions;
NAME; grade and quality (* - good, ** - very good, *** - great, **** - world class classic); (length); type of pro. used - G = natural/gear, F = fixed (b - bolt, p - piton, fn - fixed nut), M = mixed; TR = toprope, R = runout/dangerous, PG = scary/risky; Description;

There are several distinct areas developed;
NW Face -The area to the left of the main lower corner - easy to moderate trad, mixed and sport climbs.
SW Face - The lower and upper left and right sides of the main corner, easy to moderately hard bolted climbs, both short and long.
West Face- Includes the slabs above the lower trail, mostly easy bolted routes, as well as the lush Garden Ledge with the short, steep and hard bolted faces!
Windy Point - The best rock at Whistler Canyon! Mostly moderate to hard (trad, mixed and sport) climbs in a great setting.
North Canyon/Frog Pond Trail - 4 separate areas with diverse easy to hard mostly bolted climbs.
Upper Canyon - Remote, spread out area includes several crags with easy to hard bolted and trad climbs in a great location. Some remote crags are completely undeveloped. Banded Wall is especially fine.
Upper East Canyon - The last trailside crag before the gate to Forest Service land. Unique feeling place with some great slab (trad, mixed and sport) climbing.

Getting There 

Follow the signs on the highway to the parking area on the east side of Hyw 97, 3 miles south of Oroville/14 miles north of Tonasket (white graveled road and parking lot).

A 5 to 15 minute hike along the horse trail gets you in to the different crags (30 to 45 minutes for the upper crags). There is some climber info posted on the back side of the main sign-in kiosk.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.1 miles from here

85 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',43],['1 Star',25],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',18],['5.7',15],['5.8',11],['5.9',12],['5.10',16],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Whistler Canyon Trailhead (Oroville)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Whistler Canyon Trailhead (Oroville):
Sheepish   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 95'   West Face : Garden Ledge Wall
First Thought Best Thought   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 90'   North Canyon (Frog Pond Tra... : North Canyon - Sleeping Tur...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Whistler Canyon Trailhead (Oroville)

Featured Route For Whistler Canyon Trailhead (Oroville)
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber starting up Aqua Vitae

Aqua Vitae 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  WA : Okanogan : ... : Lower NW Face
AQUA VITAE 5.4 ** 95’ F (6b)From the bottom right end of the Lower NW face (just a few feet above the old aqueduct), follow the bolts to the belay ledge on the arête near the top of the first section of wall (2 ring anchors). An 80’ 3rd class scramble leads on up to the base of the Upper NW Face....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Whistler Canyon Trailhead (Oroville) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: WCT overview
BETA PHOTO: WCT overview
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the "trailhead" and parking lot ...
View of the "trailhead" and parking lot ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Whistler Canyon Trailhead overview of crags
BETA PHOTO: Whistler Canyon Trailhead overview of crags
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper NW Face
BETA PHOTO: Upper NW Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower and upper cliffs from the parking lot.
Lower and upper cliffs from the parking lot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Windy Point from the South
Windy Point from the South
Rock Climbing Photo: Banded Wall from the lower trail (#100) on a Winte...
Banded Wall from the lower trail (#100) on a Winte...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on "Sheepish" (5.6 *** on West ...
Climbers on "Sheepish" (5.6 *** on West ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rattler in early spring
Rattler in early spring
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber's kiosk
Climber's kiosk
Rock Climbing Photo: View North across the Okanogan Valley from the low...
View North across the Okanogan Valley from the low...
Rock Climbing Photo: View west from the top of Windy Point.
View west from the top of Windy Point.
Rock Climbing Photo: View North from upper Whistler Canyon (top of Band...
View North from upper Whistler Canyon (top of Band...
Rock Climbing Photo: Newly planted apples at the base of WCT
Newly planted apples at the base of WCT
Rock Climbing Photo: View West (to the Pasaytens) from upper Whistler C...
View West (to the Pasaytens) from upper Whistler C...
Rock Climbing Photo: WCT Crag in summer from the Okanogan River
WCT Crag in summer from the Okanogan River
Rock Climbing Photo: Whistler Canyon Trailhead
Whistler Canyon Trailhead
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber at the start of "On Point" on Wi...
Climber at the start of "On Point" on Wi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing areas of Okanogan County
BETA PHOTO: Climbing areas of Okanogan County

Comments on Whistler Canyon Trailhead (Oroville) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick N
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 6, 2014
This is a great newly developed area!! Still some loose rocks on certain routes but James has put a lot of hard work into route development here. You could easily spend at least a day or two on great diverse routes
By Mountain Heather
Nov 10, 2014
This is a great little crag! We stopped here on the way to Skaha a month ago and did a couple of fun climbs on great rock. Looking forward to going back.

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